Kipduino (aka DIY Arduino)

A gentle note:

Please read all instructions carefully, view all videos and resource docs – and ask on the comments section if you are stuck. If you need extra help, take pictures, or record a video so we can help you better. Online members & my team and I are all here to help. We kindly ask that you do not email [email protected] with technical questions, unless you find something wrong with the instructions.

Good luck!
– Kip

INTRODUCTION

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This is, by far, the most complex project we’ve ever designed (or rather, re-designed – all credits to the Arduino team for a revolutionary piece of open-source hardware). We recommend you read ALL the instructions thoroughly, and watch ALL the videos, and read the questions that others have wrote in the comments – or ask them yourself.

Give yourself time. This kit took our team 2 whole weeks, working day and night to even replicate and troubleshoot – so don’t try to put everything together in 1 sitting – you’ll only get tired, frustrated, and make mistakes.

While this kit is hard, it is not impossible. This kit will combine the knowledge you’ve acquired from building the LED cube and the DIY speakers, and put them to the ultimate test. You’ll also acquire new skills in the process.

Good luck!

– Kip

DIY ARDUINO OVERVIEW

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What is an Arduino?

Arduino is like your computer, except a lot less powerful. Technically, it’s called a “programmable You can make it do a lot of cool things, like make LEDs blink, program Tetris or Tic-Tac-Toe, or make it brew tea (yes it’s really possible).

Why build one vs. buy one?

We think building your own allows you to familiarize yourself with the hardware and really helps you understand how the Arduino works. Plus, it’s cheaper than spending $30 bucks at the store for a completed version. Don’t get us wrong, we buy Arduinos all the time to build and prototype things fast – and we recommend you get one too! But in the long run, you’ll save money by building simple Arduino-based setups without all the excess parts included in the Arduino.

The reason it’s cheaper is because the Arduino comes with all the 3 main parts (explained below). This is good for prototyping, connecting your project to the computer and programming it. But after it’s programmed, you can simply pluck the micro-controller out, and place it onto a simple, Arduino-based setup without the FTDI breakout circuit and the switching circuit.

A DIY Arduino has three main parts:

#1 The Main Microcontroller Setup
If you remember in the LED cube, the microcontroller is the chip that holds all the instructions and code that tells an item to do something (for example, a LED to blink).

#2 The FTDI Breakout Circuit
The FTDI breakout board allows for your computer to talk to the microcontroller. Think of it as almost like an adapter. This part is only needed when you need the DIY Arduino to talk to the computer. We’ll be building this as a part of the main DIY Arduino board, but if you are more advanced, you can build it separately (thus making it a true “breakout board”).

#3 The Power-Switching Circuit (Guru Kit only)
The DIY Arduino can be powered two ways: either by a power adapter, or USB power coming off of your computer. While the Beginner and Hobbyist kits will have a switch that you have to manually toggle, the Guru Kits will come with the parts that will tell the DIY Arduino to be “smart.”

DIY Arduino Schematics

These are the schematics for the DIY Arduino. Remember, if there is a discrepancy between the the video, schematics, and the written instructions, this is the order you should reconcile it in:

Schematic > Written > Pictures > Video

This means that the schematic trumps everything! When in doubt.. check the schematics.

DIY Arduino with Manual Switch (Beginner & Hobbyist)

DIY-Arduino-V01

DIY Arduino with Switching Circuit (Guru Kit Only)

DIY-Arduino-V02

PART 1: THE MAIN ARDUINO BOARD

This is called the “main” board because this board can function without the FTDI Breakout Circuit (Part 2) or the Power-Switching Circuit (Part 3), just as long as the microcontroller has the right code.

For example, if you want to build a clock project, you can simply use the main board with the proper “clock code” loaded into the microcontroller. If you want to change the clock code, simply connect it to an Arduino with the FTDI Breakout Circuit, connect to computer, and re-program.

atmega_pinouts

Step 1: Make a Power Rail (Optional)

This power rail is not required, but will make your build easier. Use some solid copper wire and solder them on the top and bottom of the longer lengths of the PCB.

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Step 2: 28-Pin IC Socket & Momentary Switch

Pin 1 (Reset) connects to the momentary switch. The other part of the momentary switch runs into GND.

The momentary switch should be oriented in such a way that the curvature of the arms are on the left and right when you place them into the board, and NOT top and bottom.

momentary_switch

Pictured here, the corners of the 28-Pin IC socket goes into E19, E16, R19, R16.
Pictured here, the momentary switch goes into B19, B16, D19, D16.

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Step 3: 10k Ohm Resistor

Pin 1 (Reset) connects to the 10k resistor. The other part of the 10k resistor runs into positive power 5V+.

Pictured here, the 10k resistor goes into E20 and I20.

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Step 4: PWR & GND Connections

Pin 7 (VCC) connects to positive power 5V+.
Pin 8 (GND) connects to negative power GND.

Pictured here, Pin 7 is located on K19.
Pictured here, Pin 8 is located on L19.

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Step 5: 16mhz Crystal Oscillator & 2x 22nF Capacitors

Pin 9 connects to one end of the 16mhz crystal oscillator.
Pin 10 connects to the other end of the 16mhz crystal oscillator.
– Each end of the 16mhz crystal oscillator connects to a separate 22nF capacitor.
– The other ends of the 22nF capacitors connect to GND.

Pictured here, the 16mhz crystal oscillator is placed in M21 & N23.
Pictured here, the first 22nF capacitor is placed in K21 & L21.
Pictured here, the second 22nF capacitor is placed in K23 & L23.

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Step 6: 3mm Yellow LED & 330ohm Resistor

Pin 19 connects to the anode (+) Yellow 3mm LED (longer leg).
– The cathode (-) (shorter leg) of the 3mm LED connects to a 330ohm resistor.
– The opposite end of the 330ohm Resistor connects to GND.

Pictured here, shorter leg (-) placed in M14 & longer leg (+) in N14.
Pictured here, the 330ohm resistor is placed in H14 & L14.

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Step 7: More PWR & GND Connections

Pin 20 (AVCC) connects to positive power 5V+.
Pin 21 (AREF) connects to positive power 5V+.
Pin 22 (GND) connects to negative power GND.

Pictured here, Pin 20 is located on M16.
Pictured here, Pin 21 is located on L16.
Pictured here, Pin 22 is located on K16.

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Step 8: Barrel Jack Power, Switch, & USB Power

Guru Kits: See Part 3 before you work on this.

The DIY Arduino can be powered one of two ways – from the USB or the wall power. A switch will be used to route the power coming from the USB or the barrel jack into the power rail (5V+).

Connect the Barrel Jack Adapter
Hot glue the barrel jack adapter to the corner of the board.
– Connect and solder the pins into the holes of the PCB with either hookup wire or solid copper wire.

barrel_jack

The negative leg of the barrel jack adapter goes to GND.
The positive leg of the barrel jack adapter goes to the switch.

Pictured here, the negative power (GND) is placed in G1 & positive power (5V+) in G3.

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Connect the Switch
The first outer pin of the switch connects to the positive leg of the barrel jack adapter.
The second outer pin of the switch connects to the positive leg of the USB type B female adapter.
The middle pin of the switch connects to positive power 5V+.

Pictured here, the switch is placed in N1, O1, and P1.

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STOP! This is a checkpoint!

Do not move past this point unless you’ve got this part working. Heed this warning.. or face the wrath of the soldering/de-soldering Gods.



Check to see if the Arduino works like it’s supposed to:
1) Plug in the barrel jack to a 5V 1A power adapter.
2) Make sure the switch is turned on.
3) The ATmega chip is pre-loaded with code that makes the LED blink. If it blinks, congratulations!
4) Check the Reset button as well by pressing the momentary switch. You should see a series of short blinks, which notifies you that it’s been reset.

Connect the USB Type B Female Adapter
– Straighten the pins on the sides of the USB adapter so they are flat and the adapter can rest on the PCB.
– Hot glue the USB adapter to the other corner of the board.
– Connect and solder the pins into the holes of the PCB.

usb-pinouts

The negative leg of the USB adapter goes to GND.
The positive leg of the USB jack adapter goes to the switch.

Pictured here, the four pins of the USB adapter are placed in U3, U4, V3, V4.

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STOP! This is another checkpoint!

Do not move past this point unless you’ve got this part working.



Check the USB power of the Arduino:
1) Plug in the USB cable to a power source or a computer source.
2) Make sure the switch is flipped to USB power
3) Like the barrel jack, if it blinks, congratulations!

PART 2: THE FTDI BREAKOUT BOARD CIRCUIT

The FTDI Breakout Board Circuit will let your DIY Arduino project to connect and talk to the computer. The reason why it’s called a “breakout” is because this circuit can be separated from the main Arduino board (although in this project, they will be together).

Step 0: FTDI Chip Soldering

– Solder the FTDI chip to the SSOP4-28pin PCB.
– Break the 28-pin male headers in half and solder them onto the SSOP4 PCB as well.

smd_soldering_00

This part involves surface-mount soldering so make sure you view the in-depth video and fully read the instructions on SMD soldering (which stands for Surface Mount Device Soldering) before you permanently solder on the FTDI board onto your DIY Arduino board.

The #1 attribution for circuits not working is that a connection, most of the time GND and PWR, is swapped, soldered improperly, or not soldered at all.

Similarly, the #1 problem we faced in prototyping these kits were a result of the FTDI chip: bridged connections, missed connections, and improper soldering.

Improper SMD soldering can mess up the chip and ruin your project. If it’s your first time, it’s important you to follow the instructions step-by-step and take ALL necessary precautions.

Step 1: SSOP4 Board

Mount the SSOP4 Board onto the PCB.

Pictured here, the corners of the SSOP4 PCB go into E12, E05, R12, and R05.

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ft232rl_pinouts

Step 2: GND Connections

Pin 26 connects to GND.
Pin 25 connects to GND.
Pin 21 connects to GND.
Pin 18 connects to GND.

Pin 26 is located at G05.
Pin 25 is located at H05.
Pin 21 is located at L05.
Pin 18 is located at O05.

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Step 3: 3mm Green LED & 330ohm Resistor

Pin 23 connects to cathode (- shorter leg) of 3mm green LED.
– Anode (+ longer leg) of green LED connects to 330ohm resistor.
– 330ohm resistor connects to positive power +5V.

Pictured here, cathode (- shorter leg) of 3mm green LED is placed in J04.
Pictured here, anode (+ longer leg) of 3mm green LED is placed in I03.
Pictured here, the 330ohm resistor is placed in H04 and H01.

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Step 4: 3mm Yellow LED & 330ohm Resistor

Pin 22 connects to cathode (- shorter leg) of 3mm yellow LED.
– Anode (+ longer leg) of yellow LED connects to 330ohm resistor.
– 330ohm resistor connects to positive power +5V.

Pictured here, cathode (- shorter leg) of 3mm yellow LED is placed in K04.
Pictured here, anode (+ longer leg) of 3mm yellow LED is placed in L03.
Pictured here, the 330ohm resistor is placed in M04 and M01.

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Step 5: PWR Connection

Pin 20 connects to positive power 5V+.

Pictured here, Pin 20 is located at M05.

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Step 6: 0.1uF Capacitor & GND

Pin 17 connects to 0.1uF Capacitor.
– 0.1uF Capacitor connects to GND.

Pictured here, the 0.1uF capacitor is placed in O04 & P04.

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Step 7: D+ & D- (Data) USB Connections

Pin 16 connects to USB D-
Pin 15 connects to USB D+

Pictured here, Pin 16 is located on Q05.
Pictured here, Pin 15 is located on R05.

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Step 8: More PWR and GND Connections

Pin 7 connects to GND.
Pin 11 connects to GND.
Pin 4 connects to positive power +5V.

Pin 7 is located at K12.
Pin 11 is located at O12.
Pin 4 is located at H12.

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Step 9: Another 0.1uF Capacitor

Bridge the PWR and GND rails:
– Connect one end of the 0.1uF capacitor to GND.
– Connect the other end of the 0.1uF capacitor to positive power 5V+.

Pictured here, the 0.1uF capacitor is placed in E15 & F15.

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STOP! This is a checkpoint!

Do not move past this point unless you’ve got this part working. Heed this warning.. or face the wrath of the soldering/de-soldering Gods.

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Check to see if the FTDI chip is recognized by your computer:

    1) Follow Arduino Programming, STEP 1 and download the Arduino App.
    2) Launch the Arduino App
    3) Plug in your DIY Arduino into your computer

      – The two LEDs (yellow and green) linked to the FTDI circuit should light up for a brief moment
      – The yellow LED hooked up to the ATmega should also blink (like the last checkpoint)

    6) Wait for your computer to recognize the USB
    7) Go to: TOOLS > SERIAL PORT on the Arduino App

      – On a Mac, you should see something like TTY.a-string-of-text in the serial port menu
      – On a Windows, you should something like COM4, COM5, or COMx in the serial port menu

    8) If it works, continue onto the next step!

      – If it doesn’t work, re-check all the connections to the FTDI breakout setup
      – If it still doesn’t work, go back to the SMD soldering video and guide, and review everything

NOTICE – THERE ARE SOME CHANGES MADE BY WINDOWS THAT MAKES IT SO THAT YOU HAVE TO UPDATE YOUR FTDI DRIVERS. SEE VIDEO BELOW FOR DETAILS:

Step 10: Connect the FTDI Board to the Main Arduino Board

Connection 1
Pin 5 of the FTDI board connects to Pin 3 of the microcontroller (RX).

Pictured here, Pin 5 of the FTDI board is located at I12.
Pictured here, Pin 3 of the microcontroller is located at G19.

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Connection 2
Pin 2 of the FTDI board connects to one end of a 0.1uF capacitor.
– The other end of the 0.1uF capacitor connects to Pin 1 of the microcontroller (DTR).

Pictured here, Pin 2 of the FTDI board is located at F12.
Pictured here, the 0.1uF capacitor is placed in E13 & F13.
Pictured here, Pin 1 of the microcontroller is located at E19.

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Connection 3
Pin 1 of the FTDI board connects to Pin 2 of the microcontroller (TX).

Pictured here, Pin 1 of the FTDI board is located at E12.
Pictured here, Pin 2 of the microcontroller is located at F19.

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Step 11: Digital and Analog Output

Female Headers
Solder the female headers on the left-most edge of the board.

Pictured here, the ends of the 8 pin female header are placed in E30, L30.
Pictured here, the ends of the 6 pin female header are placed in M30, R30
Pictured here, the ends of the 6 pin female header are placed in I28, N28

Optional: You may want to hot glue them in place so that they would not wiggle or bend.

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Connect the Headers
arduino_pinouts

Connect the digital pins of the microcontroller on the Arduino board accordingly:

Microcontroller Pin 2 (located @ F19) connects to D0 pin
Microcontroller Pin 3 (located @ G19) connects to D1 pin
Microcontroller Pin 4 (located @ H19) connects to D2 pin
Microcontroller Pin 5 (located @ I19) connects to D3 pin
Microcontroller Pin 6 (located @ J19) connects to D4 pin

Microcontroller Pin 11 (located @ O19) connects to D5 pin
Microcontroller Pin 12 (located @ P19) connects to D6 pin
Microcontroller Pin 13 (located @ Q19) connects to D7 pin
Microcontroller Pin 14 (located @ R19) connects to D8 pin

Microcontroller Pin 15 (located @ R16) connects to D9 pin
Microcontroller Pin 16 (located @ QJ16) connects to D10 pin
Microcontroller Pin 17 (located @ P16) connects to D11 pin
Microcontroller Pin 18 (located @ O16) connects to D12 pin
Microcontroller Pin 19 (located @ N16) connects to D13 pin

Connect the analog pins of the microcontroller on the Arduino board accordingly:
Microcontroller Pin 23 (located @ J16) connects to A0 pin
Microcontroller Pin 24 (located @ I16) connects to A1 pin
Microcontroller Pin 25 (located @ H16) connects to A2 pin
Microcontroller Pin 26 (located @ G16) connects to A3 pin
Microcontroller Pin 27 (located @ F16) connects to A4 pin
Microcontroller Pin 28 (located @ E16) connects to A5 pin

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*Note the picture above is from another version so the board might not look similar to the previous one in the instructions. Even so, the wiring of the pinouts for this particular step are correct and interchangeable.

GURU KIT STUFF

The Guru kit comes with an extra DIY Kipduino board that you can use, as well as the materials to program a 5x5x5 cube.

The Switching Circuit

This circuit is meant so that the Arduino board automatically detects which you have plugged in – the AC power or the USB power.

Here’s the schematic:
DIY-Arduino-V02

The 5x5x5 Cube

The 5x5x5 cube is loosely based on these instructions by user icky_unicorn on Instructables, and our LED cube tutorial.

We suggest you read that first before attempting anything too crazy.

Here are the instructions:

The datasheet

…to line decoder 1
Arduino pins 2,3,4 to inputs A, B, C on line decoder 1
Arduino pin 7 to G1 on line decoder 1
Line decoder pins G2A and G2B to GND

…to line decoder 2
Arduino pins 8,12,13 to inputs A, B, C on line decoder 2
Arduino pin A0 to G1 on line decoder 2
Line decoder pins G2A and G2B to GND

…to line decoder 3
Arduino pins A1, A2,A3 to inputs A, B, C on line decoder 3
Arduino pin A4 to G1 on line decoder 3
Line decoder pins G2A and G2B to GND

*One NPN transistor for each col on LED cube
*All transistor emitters to GND

Line decoder 1 pins Y0-Y7 to base of NPN transistor for cols 1-8 on LED cube (transistor collector to col)
Line decoder 2 pins Y0-Y7 to base of NPN transistor for cols 9-16 on LED cube (transistor collector to col)
Line decoder 3 pins Y0-Y7 to base of NPN transistor for cols 17-24 on LED cube (transistor collector to col)
Arduino pin A5 to base of NPN transistor for col 25 on LED cube (transistor collector to col)

Arduino pins 5, 6, 9, 10, 11 to VCC rows 1,2,3,4,5 on LED cube

Corresponding mapping in Arduino sketch code:

const int selA[3] = {2,8,A1};
const int selB[3] = {3,12,A2};
const int selC[3] = {4,13,A3};
const int enable[3] = {7,A0,A4};
const int lastCol = A5;

//PWM/VCC pins for fading effects
//

int row[5] = {5, 6, 9, 10, 11}


MATERIALS FOR THE DIY ARDUINO – MAIN BOARD

ATmega8 (Beginner) or ATmega328P (Hobbyist & Guru) Microcontroller
If you remember the LED cube and the microcontroller we used, this will look familiar. Also, the pin-outs for the ATmega8-16pu and ATmega328P-PU are the same. The only difference between them is the amount of flash memory – the ATmega8-16pu has 8KB, while the ATmega328 has 32KB – 4 times the amount.

1x 28-Pin IC Socket
Don’t build your Arduino without one of these. Why? Because you’ll want to load and unload microcontrollers so that you can use them in other devices. Think of Arduino as a microcontroller “burner” of sorts, that so happens to also have pinouts for protyping!

1x 7x9cm PCB
This is probably the minimum size needed / recommended to do this project. If you’re the type of person that likes building on big boards, by all means upgrade to a 9x15cm board! 🙂 A huge DIY Arduino would also look pretty cool!

1x 16mhz Crystal Oscillator
These things help the DIY Arduino calculate time. Without it, the Arduino won’t be able to do things like count seconds or minutes. 16mhz stands for 16 million cycles per second (mega in megahertz stands for million) – and the Arduino uses the cycles as a reference to become smarter.

2x 22pF Ceramic Capacitors
The 22pF capacitors help in the “loading” of the crystal oscillator, which consequently helps it to do its job – oscillate. Sometimes the crystal will oscillate without them, but there are some times it won’t – so it’s just good practice to use these guys.

1x Momentary Switch
The ones in the kit are 6mm x 6mm x 6mm. We use this to help reset Arduino, sort of like rebooting your computer.

1x 10k ohm Resistor
1/4w metal or carbon would work here.

1x 3mm Yellow LED
The LED works as two things: first as an indicator that the Arduino is working, and second as a light that you can program to test uploading code.

1x 330 ohm Resistor
1/4w metal or carbon. The 330 ohm resistor is used for the 3mm LEDs.

2x 6-Pin Female Header
These headers will be used for the pinouts of the Arduino so you can connect stuff to it.

1x 8-Pin Female Header
These headers will be used for the pinouts of the Arduino so you can connect stuff to it.

MATERIALS FOR THE DIY ARDUINO – POWER

1x Barrel Jack Adapter
You can use whatever size barrel jack adapter here, just so long as it fits the power adapter you own. Make sure the power adapter is around 5V 1A.

1x Type-B USB Female, DIP
This adapter is so that your Arduino can communicate with your computer. Power will also be running through it.

1x Toggle Switch
Use the switch to toggle between USB power and AC power. Obviously you can’t use both at the same time because there would be too much current into the Arduino board. Guru kits come with an auto-switching setup!

Type-A to Type-B Male USB Cable, 1 ft
You can grab a longer cable if you have one laying around. This is a very common cable, used in many printers and other computer peripherals.

MATERIALS FOR THE DIY ARDUINO – FTDI BREAKOUT

1x FT232RL Chip
This is a very common found in many devices. It helps serial circuits interface with the computer. It’s the brain that “translates” the serial data into data that the computer can read via the USB.

SSOP-28 Board
Obviously, the FTDI chip is surface-mounted, so you need a board that will handle SMD.

1x 28-Pin Male Header
These male headers will allow you to mount the SSOP-28 board onto your DIY Arduino board!

1x 3mm Yellow LED
This is one of two LEDs linked to the FTDI breakout circuit that serves as indicator lights.

1x 3mm Green LED
This is one of two LEDs linked to the FTDI breakout circuit that serves as indicator lights.

2x 330 ohm Resistors
1/4w metal or carbon. The 330 ohm resistor is used for the 3mm LEDs, so you won’t burn them out and fry them.

3x 0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor
Good ol’ ceramic capacitor, used between connections to the microcontroller and the FTDI chip and for the FTDI chip itself.

Solder Wick, 1ft.
Solder wick will help you do SMD soldering. This is more than you need to solder a FT232RL chip to the SSOP-28 board.

ADDITIONAL PARTS FOR GURU KIT

2x 1N5817 Schottky Diode

1x 30V 0.50A Resettable Switch

1x 5V 1A Power Adapter
This is a standard power adapter to power your DIY Arduino.

1x Barrel Jack Adapter
Another one, for whatever the use might call for.

70x 5mm Milky Diffused LEDs
So you can build a 4x4x4 LED cube, program it, and then have a blast.

2x PCB
For mounting your LED cube.

4x Hex Nuts, Nylon Spacers, and Machine Screws
For making a stand with your LED cube so you can mount it and make it look awesome.

Guru Kits come with an extra DIY Arduino Main Board

HD Video Download

Right click on this and click SAVE to download an HD version of this tutorial.

Docs

Kipduino Schematics – official schematics for the Kipduino DIY Arduino

Main Arduino Schematic – this was the schematic that we based the DIY Arduino off of

ATmega8 Docs – summarized datasheet for ATmega8 microcontroller

ATmega328P Docs – summarized datasheet for ATmega328P microcontroller

FT232RL Docs – datasheet for FT232RL SMD chip

Links – Cool, Amazing, and Wonderful Arduino-based Projects from the Internets

20 Amazing Arduino Projects – on Instructables

10 Arduino Projects – curated by the folks at Read Write Web

11 Crazy Projects – sure to make you jealous (or insane) if you attempt to build them

Links – Other DIY Arduinos from the Internets

DIY-duino – hey something looks similar!

Higgs Boson’s DIY Arduino – this one has the voltage circuit and everything

Skinny DIY Arduino – this one looks like it lost some weight. Maybe it’s on Weight Watchers.

Yoga-duino – this one’s been exercising with the skinny one.

Printed-duino – another reincarnation of the PCB design for DIY Arduino

Breadboard Arduino – for those of us who like to breadboard first! (which is nearly everyone!)

Paperduino – for those of us who love paper and/or are scared of PCBs

  • Jon Oman

    Sounds awesome

  • thomas genzer

    cool i have alaways wanted to try something like this

  • Sparkyarch

    The evolution of these projects is apparent. We’ll be building autonomous beings by year end.

  • Joseph Palesano

    Can’t wait to see More

  • Lee buswell

    i have arduino uno change i program my 5x5x5 cube with that and if so how?

  • Mitchell Theobald

    wouldn’t it be cheaper to buy an audrino itself? or a clone

    • Pat Ayala

      I assume if you buy that kit from kipkay it would be cheaper to clone but if you buy the parts your self then it would be most likely that cloning it would cost more

    • Where’s the fun in that? 😉

  • Jo Montez

    This is really complicated, but I’m looking forward to trying it!

    • It really isn’t! If you can do the LED cube, this is a cake walk (sort of!)

      • Jo Montez

        Okay, thanks! (:

  • Chuck Baker

    Can’t Wait! Month 8- mating the Arduino with the Raspberry Pi?

    • Pat Ayala

      That would be cool

      • Lavoz24

        Whataya get when Kipduino marries A Kipberry Pi?
        Answer……a Kipduberry PI

    • They’d have to go on a first date first.

  • mike

    Do you now that kip in dutch mean chikken? :-p

    • Rene Harlaar

      chicken*

    • So… Chickenduino?

  • Marke

    I dont understand the micro controllers resistor etc. but i understand that this will be cool

    • Tutorials on our site. Or better yet, Google! You can also ask the people in the forums!

  • Lukas

    Daaamn.. I always wanted an arduino, but it is to expensive for mee 🙁

    • Pat Ayala

      Really? They only cost around $30 on Amazon

    • Well this one will run you less than 20 bucks 🙂

  • Forrest Woodward

    I hope you won’t be mad if I rename mine to the “Woodwarduino”.

    • You probably can do it… just print out your very own PCB, or better yet sketch it!

  • Griffin

    It would be awesome to have and to learn how to program arduino.

    • There will be a tutorial on that. On top of that, the Arduino site has many tutorials!

  • Pat Ayala

    What about raspberry pi any projects for that ????

  • dauwe simon

    wow amazing awesome it gone be the first time doing with arduino in hole my live !!!!!!

    • Yes, Arduino will change your life.

  • Stanleygrocks

    can’t wait for Kipduino.

    • Kipduino can’t wan’t for you!

  • sparkymccloud

    This looks a little scary…..ok, a lot scary! I haven’t even built my speakers yet. I’m up for the challenge. The format that your using for the “Kipduino” is perfect for the beginner. If you could do every project this way would be awesome. If you could do the speaker project like that it would be appreciated. I’ll be sitting by the mailbox.

  • Kevin

    I’m so excited for this kit! I love Arduino, especially the Uno! I wonder if you could partially automate your home with one??? 😉

  • Jonathan Zackary Kayne

    Thats sounds sooo cool!
    Does the kit come with an Arduino because i already have 1!
    Kipkay, just wanted to let you know that you, ultimately got me started in electronics as far as my interests go, and i actually plan on taking a career in electronic in the future! Just wanted to say thank-you
    -JonJon

    • You will be building your very own DIY Arduino! It’s pretty amazing. Thanks for the compliment and I wish you the best in electronic endeavors!

      • Jonathan Zackary Kayne

        Wow! Since thats the case, I should tell my school librarian so that our School MAKE club can each get a kit!

        • Lavoz24

          If your librarian buys these kits and everyone in your school MAKE club joins you will get a free month for every person who joins. Could you imagine? Getting free kits for around a year?!?! It’s AWESOME!!!

          • Jonathan Zackary Kayne

            That would be awesome, except the librarians believe they are too difficult for us to do. (i just got my kit in on friday and am little scared of the SMD soldering, despite my great job in soldering) but I might get my friends to get one so that i could get a free month!

          • Lavoz24

            Maybe you can convince them to try earlier kits like the bristle bots or solar charger. All in all, at least you have tried to share with those you know. Keep up the awesome work.

          • Lavoz24

            By the way, for the SMD soldering, if you’re weary about soldering it I suggest you leave it for last and look at as many videos on SMD soldering as you can, practice on old boards like those on DVD players or other electronics first. Just desolder and resolder or take it to someone that does electronics and ask them to do it for now.

  • Doge

    I would program a system to send me a messgaes on my phone and xbox when kipkay uploads a new video :p

    • Ha ha! That’s an awesome idea!

    • Micah

      You can do this! Sign up for an account (for free) at ifttt.com and you can make a recipe that says “If kipkay uploads a new video, text me.” Try it! 😉

      • Austin Schenck

        Wow, I just took a quick look at that and it was amazing, thanks for the link. I wonder if i can pair that with an Arduino via the Serial connection?

  • Burhan F

    Love your vids Kip! Keep up the good work and can’t wait to see how this is built!

  • walter z

    may i have a free one please please with a cherry on top

  • ron

    Very cool kip I look forward to doing it.

  • Slizzard Lizard

    I hope this wont be too difficult to follow. Sometimes i find myself in over my head and get frustrated. It sounds like this one will be a stop and go project. Do a little now and a little later and hope it all works out.

    • It seems intimidating but it’s actually not that hard 😉 Don’t worry! ^.^

  • Frank Daniel

    The preview looks great. I’ve just recently started scratching the surface of Arduino, and really looking forward to this project.

    • You are going to love it, Frank!

  • dougal harris

    KIPKAY I LOVEEE THE E-MAILS YOU SEND ME ABOUT HOW EVERYTHING WORKS!!! I’ve learnt a lot and thank you sooooo soooo soooo sooo much you are the best guy that has lived on the planet!

    • Hey thanks alot! Have fun!

  • Tim

    I cant wait to start building it!!

  • Aryan Gandhi

    what if i actually got a free kit ?!?!?!?

  • Aryan Gandhi

    kipkay i are u very very very rich ?

    • I wish!!

      • Lavoz24

        LoL! Nice one!
        Kip is rich Aryan, he’s rich in knowledge and he’s sharing his wealth with us!

  • Austin Schenck

    Very cool, thanks Kip for all the work you do. I am currently working on a DIY Arduino powered Lightsaber, and this will be a great project to lead into that with.

    • Awesome! Can’t wait to see it!

  • alexander

    Nice job kipkay! That would be really nice to have as I myself, like to build things and do a lot of different projects. Love all your videos keep up the good work..

  • dougal harris

    Hey kip, just wondering, I’m not amazing at electronics but I was just about to buy an arduino kit, when I saw that you were making a “kipduino”. Would I be better to wait till you do the kipduino or just buy an arduino?

    • Wait! It’s this month’s kit and you will learn more about electronics!

  • jeremia

    will this also work on the 5x5x5 led cube

  • TigerJedi

    when will the kit come out? my birthday is coming up on the 26th and i am hoping i can get this kit(or at least order it) by my birthday.

  • Milan

    Put some stickers in the kit so that we can stick them onto the female headers which will tell which pin is which.

    • Lavoz24

      OR being this is a DIY kit we could print & stick them on ourselves! That way we could make the stickers unique to us };-D The possibilities are endless!!!

  • Milan

    No build video?

    • Build video is in the works 😀

  • bigred200

    Do all the red wires in the schematics connect?

    • Red goes to 5V+ big red

  • bigred200

    Does it come with wires to hook up any led cubes for anything if not what kind of wire should i buy ,

    • happyfaceairline

      my kit came with those jumper wires

      • bigred200

        What kit and how any of them

  • Ksoder

    Kipkay, I was wondering two things. First, what is the difference between beginner and hobbiest for this kit? Second, when will my kit come?

    PS. I love you videos, my diy speaker was a success. Keep up the amazing work please! 🙂 you are by far the best diy building and teaching channel and website! You are my favorite youtuber. You are really good with electronics. Your awesome

    • Austin Schenck

      The only difference I can see is that the beginner Kit comes with an ATmega8 chip (8 KB of memory), and the Hobbyist comes with an ATmega328 chip (32 KB of memory). Though there may be other differences.

    • Gadgetron

      The Guru kit has the ability to detect what power source it is on.
      (Oh wait…you only asked about the first two. Oh well)

  • Lavoz24

    I’ve done a quick review of this and after reading about the connections to power and ground I take it you mean the “power” is the lower copper rail along the “X” line and the “ground” is the upper copper rail along the “number” line?

  • Gadgetron

    I appreciate the checkpoints, if you didn’t put them there I would probably blow through it all and make mad mistakes.

  • joshua

    kip i need an smd chip mine has a broken pin

    • Gadgetron

      Email [email protected] if you haven’t already and they will get you all fixed up.

  • joshua

    it wont work

    • happyfaceairline

      support at kipkaykits should be able to help you out!

  • joshua

    no i mean i cant email them it says illegal host

    • Gadgetron

      Try the filling out the forum in the support and faq. Also try using the reply button please.

  • Kevin

    I’m really looking forward to getting this kit. The arduino is a fantastic controller and can be used for a great many things. Here’s a picture of one of the DIY arduinos I made, a shrimp. It requires an additional CP2102 USB to UART bridge to connect to the computer so you can upload arduino sketches to it, but then it works essentially the same as an Arduino Uno.

    And while this shrimp is cool, after watching the video for the Kipduino, I can’t wait for this kit!
    *The kipduino looks much cooler.

  • Hey everyone, you all should be getting your Kipduinos in your mailbox starting this week if you are in the USA (we shipped them out last Thursday/Friday). Let the fun begin.

    Oh yeah. You won’t believe the things we have in store for you in the next 3-6 months!!

    • Mitch

      Well Im in UK, still looking forward! And am I right in next months something to o with lasers?? Also thanks so much for this I have always wanted to do your project but it is £1.50 for one resistor so this helped me out a lot!
      Have a nice day,
      Mitch

  • Kevin

    Can’t wait to start building this, I finally get to test out the solder station that I have received

  • hector

    does it come with all the wires?

    • joseph scalisi

      yes

      • Lavoz24

        It comes with all except for the one’s we need to make the power rail Hector. I suggest using copper telephone or speaker wire wound really tight OR if you can’t buy solid core wire(which would work better for this), you could ask an electrician for a small piece OR use the wire from a coax cable. Thing is, you’ll have to strip it and remove the shielding,outer she’ll,etc.

  • Ksoder

    Braided copper wire instead of solid?

    • Kevin

      any wire will do as long as its completely stripped. I had no solid copper wire, so I took some extra wire, stripped it all, twisted it, soldered one end, then pulled it tight and soldered the other end

    • George Major

      I think the braided is supposed to be for helping with surface mount soldering. Its a little bulky for power rail IMO. Did you do the LED cube from Feb? I have some left over from that I plan to use personally. 🙂

    • Or just a rod of metal.

  • JAY

    what cable do we put in the barrel jack for power

  • Kevin

    I’m upset… I completed everything to where I need to plug it into the wall, but I there is no 5v adapter to be found… This is what mine looks like so far

    • Kevin

      Anyone know where I can pick up a 5v ps?

      • George Major

        My regular arduino uno takes a 9v in it’s barrel jack adapter. I haven’t really looked at the schematics to see if the kipduino has provisions in the design to work in the same way or not and I haven’t started yet…. Probably something Kip will clarify down the line. If it does take a 5v instead, buy a barrel jack male and a (3) AA holder, hook it up and use the barrel jack for battery “wireless” mode. Use the usb and a 5v adapter (like a cell phone uses) for your “wired” mode.

      • Milan

        Try radioshack (US), maybe even a hardware store might have one. You can place a 5v voltage regulator in the circuit and put a 9v battery with barrel jack plug.

      • You can use the iPhone power brick and power it using that

  • Anthony Bailey

    Would I be able to reprogram the ATMEGA8 chip on the 3x3x3 led cube with this?

  • joseph scalisi

    the outrageously tiny chip broke as i tried to solder it. sent an email, but otherwise this is as fun as a bouncy castle full of laser tag

    • Austin Schenck

      Hahaha, now THAT would be awesome!

      • joseph scalisi

        :O arduino laser tag system

        • Austin Schenck

          Hmmm, now that would be an interesting and cool project to do. And other than making the enclosure, it wouldn’t be too difficult either, I don’t think. You should post that in the Ideas Section.

          • Lavoz24

            Hey Joe, when soldering the tiny chip(ssop chip) I learned on YouTube it’s best to use clips to hold it in place while you solder and to use either a 4x magnification glass or reading glasses like the ones you get over the counter at cvs. I don’t know if it’s true but it’s suggested to go to an optical place and ask if they could/would gift you a piece of eyeglass that’s been chipped or broken and most times they would,no charge. Besides my magnifying glasses, my mom gave me a pair of her old bifocals,lol, and they work great too!

          • joseph scalisi

            i have to go get an eye exam for new glasses anyways XD

          • Lavoz24

            Lmaoooooooo! Nice!

  • joseph scalisi

    just ran into a snafu with the main board, when plugged in, the led does come on, but doesn’t blink

    • That is weird. Recheck all connectioins.

      • joseph scalisi

        just did three times while going over the instructions, nothing is out of place

  • Jonathan Zackary Kayne

    Found a typo! Step 0, then step 2…?

  • Jonathan Zackary Kayne

    also step 6 is states twice!

    • Mitch

      No, the top one has the resistor.

    • Fixed them both Jonathan 🙂

  • Mitch

    Hi Kipkay I was wondering how the tracking numbers work. When I go on UPS.com and do the tracking it doesn’t recognise the number you gave me, thanks Mitch

    • bigred200

      its should be usps not ups and if u just google the number it should pull up

      • Mitch

        Thanks, I was just no reading it properly! Got it sorted its at LA now still got to get to UK hopefully soon im seeing people posting pics of theres and mines not here hopefully a couple of weeks. Also, this is my first project, I hope I can do it! Im not sure what I can do with my Kipduino I may buy the LED cube later when I can afford, really looking forward!

        • Lavoz24

          Go online to make.com,they have loads of ideas. Also, you can buy the 3x3x3 cube and use your Kipduino for that. When I was browsing I saw MAKE.COM has a 3x3x3 kit as well for the Arduino but I suggest you get the one from Kipkay because you’ll be making it from scratch and at the same time learn how and why things work!
          All the best.

          • Mitch

            Thanks

  • Kevin

    Sorry for the blurry photo, but its connecting to the computer and reading as a com port, Now i get to do the fun part!!! Playing with loads of wires!!! If a new hardware window pops up when plugging it in you will need to go here http://www.ftdichip.com/ to get the drivers for the unit. If unsure how to install them there is a tutorial on the site explaining how

    • George Major

      Nice! Almost done man!

  • Kevin

    I have finished my Kipduino after soldering out of my comfort zone,burning my fingers a bit, and melting a few wires its finally done!! Now i have to get the parts for my next project for my Kipduino

    • Hooray!!

      • Kevin

        I am going to be making a Binary clock, I have everything needed, but the Resistors and push buttons

        • Lavoz24

          Man, you are quick when it comes to building these kits Kevin! It looks great!

        • joseph scalisi

          keviiin, help a brother out? i’m stuck on my arduino. the first led comes on but doesn’t blink, and the reset button does nothing

          • Kevin

            Would you be able to upload a photo? You may have made a wrong solder connection or maybe put the ATMega chip in backwards. I’m not too sure though, Since I have never done any electronics before the KipKayKits. I will try my hardest to help to whoever needs it

          • joseph scalisi

            it doesn’t really matter if i made a bad connection, i now have to remove and replace everything to make room for the new tiny chip i’m waiting on

          • George Major

            My first guess would be that the LED is getting constant power from a bad connection.

          • George Major

            I actually got mine to hold a steady light for a minute. Reset and it went back to stock blinking code. No idea why. Reset that sucker a few times Joe!

          • Andy Csizmadia

            Same here George, silly me, didn’t change the board txt file, but once i did, all is good the kipduino world, still doing reading on how to upload programs, Changing values in the hello world program, uploading, throws an error up.
            Usb not found, and occasionally a different one… but the fun part Is figuring it out. Patience is a virtue. Hehe

        • Kevin what kind of resistors do you need and buttons? We’ll send you some 🙂

          • Kevin

            I need 13 220 ohm resistors, 3 2.2k Ohm resistor, 2 momentary switches to set the hour and minutes, and an optional toggle push button to turn the LED’s on and off

        • Andy Csizmadia

          Just finished my breakout board, i do have to say, the swipe technique with solder braid works great!

      • ilikegoat

        4:28, instructions unclear in the video, do I use different copper wire for the negative and positive on the barrel jack??

      • ilikegoat

        Is it possible to be sent a new kit of this free of charge? My kit doesnt seem to work at checkpoint 1 and I have checked all the connections, and they are exactly like the instructions

    • Try building the LED cube!

      • ilikegoat

        How would I go about removing the ATMEGA8 board? It doesnt seem to be coming off…

        • AJ Robinson

          Just use a small flat head screwdriver and pry up each end *slowly* so as not to bend the pins. Then you should be able to use needle nose pliers. . .

  • Simon Anderson

    Plugging away, was going to wait a little for smaller diameter solder but…… 😉

    • You don’t need it. Just start! 🙂

      • Simon Anderson

        I did, lol, at first check point. searching house for 5v power, before usb plug gets soldered

        • Simon Anderson

          yay, passed first ck point 🙂

          • Simon Anderson

            check point 2, success. YAY 🙂
            soldering looks lil messy but nothing jumped.

        • Congrats!

          • Simon Anderson

            Thank you Kipkay,

  • George Major

    Got everything built but the dang Arduino IDE keeps giving me the COM in use error. I’ve changed the com port and and made sure the settings in the IDE were correct. My Uno plugs in and uploads on it’s COM port no problem. Now I’m gonna go back and try other FTDI drivers. I’m fairly sure it’s a computer side issue because I don’t see the RX TX on the Kipduino upon trying to upload… computer detects port as locked and flags the error without trying?

    • George Major

      Installed a different driver from FTDI.com. Still detects as USB COM Port. Did not change anything though.

      • You’re using PC? Try restarting your computer first.

        • George Major

          Thanks Kip…Yes, windows 7. I’ve restarted it a couple times already and it still does the same thing…. I’ve changed the com port a couple times, so I don’t think it’s another program interfering, I got my Arduino Uno to take code on it’s own com port, so It doesn’t seem to be the IDE necessarily ( I’m going to reinstall it tomorrow and see if that helps any). I still have a sneaking suspicion that the problem lies in the virtual com port and the way the drivers have it set up to act as a VCOM and a USB Serial converter for other applications of the chip. The other weird thing my computer was doing was stopping detection of new USB devices after I flipped the kipduino on and off a bunch of times. The usb ports still had power but did not try to communicate ANY of the devices I plugged in at all (No detection). The “serial converter” then showed an issue but I didn’t catch what it was because I didn’t know it was related until I read about the driver from the FTDI chip website. I restarted the computer and it resumed functioning regularly.
          I then reinstalled the drivers and that hasn’t happened again.

          • George Major

            I have also just discovered that I am getting 5v out of Headers D0 and D1. Those are the ones also hooked up for Tx and Rx. Only when hooked up to the computer. When hooked up to a 5v usb charger this doesn’t happen. The yellow and green lights are also off when this happens.

            Normal?

          • Lavoz24

            Check your firewall and virus settings. In my repairs,most times it’s the firewall or the AV that isn’t allowing things to get through. I suggest making an exception for that com port and Arduino site and shut down AV for about an hour and see what happens. Also, shut down background process’. Other times it could be too many things running in the background and signals get conflicted. Win7 has a fail safe built in, if it notices too many things trying to go in/out for a program or a DL it’ll automatically put a stop to it until you go into the firewall or windows defender and place it in the whitelist. In my yrs. of repairing pc’s this is 95% of the issue.

          • George Major

            I will definitely try that next. I have gotten it to accept a sketch this morning if I turn it on and hit compile and upload at the exact second that I hear it connect. Its progress

      • George Major

        No luck as of tonight. If anybody has any ideas, I would love to hear them. =0

  • Frank Daniel

    So once I program Kipduino, can I disconnect the ATMega chip and connect the appropriate power, ground, and pins to an otherwise blank board? Will it work the same?

    • Yes. We will have a tutorial on how to do that next month when we hook up things to the Arduino! 🙂

      • George Major

        That sounds awesome. I really would like to be able to reprogram the chip for the LED cube to do other light patterns too if that would work….

      • Frank Daniel

        Looking forward to it. But, I’ve got a project targeted for a couple weeks from now (a version of your LED Fan Sign, actually) and would like to separate the chip before then. I don’t expect a full tutorial, but any pointers would be helpful.

  • Lavoz24

    Since we are advised to help each other out, I have some coupons from harbor freight that will give you free stuff.
    One of each is free…….multimeter(cen-tech 7 function), 5.5’X7.5′ water resistant tarp, 6 piece screw driver set,multi-purpose scissors, a 25′ tape measure and a 9 LED,3.5″ aluminum,super bright flash light. They all expire 4/30/2014
    Email me @ [email protected] with the item you want on the subject line and I will email the coupon. As soon as something is taken I will let you know on here.
    Make today a great day!!!

    • Thanks lavoz24!

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Solid find!

    • Lavoz24

      The multimeter coupon has been sent out.

  • George Major

    YAAAYYY It works correctly now. I uninstalled those drivers, cleared them out, then connected the board back and let windows find new drivers (I can’t believe that it actually found any). I also disabled all other com ports, made sure nothing else was running, made sure firewalls were down. Between all that it started uploading!!! =D

    Pictured: Kipduino and Arduino Uno sharing ground; testing Kipduino output and inputs

    • Nice job george!

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      A solid build! You got the LED to blink!

  • hector

    i dont have a dc jack to fit the port, also does any one know where i can get cheap leds for the led kit im only 13 and dont have an income.

    • Austin Schenck

      If you need LEDs for cheap, try

      http://www.taydaelectronics.com/leds/round-leds.html

      You can get LEDs for just cents (as well as some other basic parts) and their shipping is usually less than $2.

      • joseph scalisi

        hey, you, yeah you. you win the internet for posting that site

  • hector

    also i cant really make the rails what can i do? please answer ASAP.

    • Email [email protected] – they’ll send you some copper wire.

  • hector

    I have gotten to the led flashing just with out power rails hopefully I’ll get them tommorow and powered it of the USB because I didn’t have a jack.

  • hector

    Other pic

  • hector

    dear kip kay do you think you can send me a pre surface mounted chip? because this happened to mine

    • Jimmy

      We’re sorry that your pin broke – for whatever reason. Please delete the comment on the forums and we’ll send you a replacement (we can delete it but we think it’s more appropriate if you do). We’re happy to send members replacement parts but not when they are on the forums writing in all caps, expecting us to answer immediately to any and all requests. We understand the frustration that you feel when projects get delayed because of parts breaking or soldering the wrong thing. We’ve all had it – but understand that no other kit service out there will send you replacement parts for free, except for us.

      • joseph scalisi

        but is the pre-soldered chip a thing?

        • Lavoz24

          What do you mean joe? BTW, do you have an Apple device so we could FaceTime instead of Skype? I ask because I think it’s easier that ay. If not then Skype is fine. Thanks.

          • joseph scalisi

            no apple devices, just skype

      • Andy Csizmadia

        Kip and his team deserve a huge high five and pat on the back.
        He’s absolutely correct, there are no other kit companies that will replace a part for free. On top of the terrific support given here.
        I’ve been a “hobbyist” for many years…
        Mostly reading, thinking, planning, but not much doing other than a few premade kits.
        Embarrassingly… it’s hard to swallow a fail when you attempt something.
        Coming across kips page, i figured i would try. Couldn’t be happier.
        Watched every single video on the site, read every direction, comment, and followed every link. Ordered and finished the 4×4 cube, troubleshoot via the clues here and couldn’t be happier.
        The kipduino, ha, I’m sure all of us had a problem here or there, but with the simple guidance and help here, it’s working great.
        The kits are very well thought out for all skill levels, planned accordingly, and with people like the general around coupled with kips team, i think this series of kits will become as much fun as the old heathkit kits from long ago (showing my age lol)
        Thank you Kip for sparking the interest once again!

  • hector

    HOW DO I GET MY MONEY BACK? or can i get a new FT232RL FTDI Chip because mine came with some bent feet and then i tried to solder it it didnt work out so well. if it is possible to get a new chip can i have it by friday or saturday?

  • Guest

    whats the input voltage, 5v?

    • Austin Schenck

      I believe it is 5 volts, yes.

  • Kevin

    I don’t know where to post something like this, but I found a very interesting video with someone playing with batteries.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hwLHdBTQ7s

    • George Major

      I’ve seen that. Crazy. @-@

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      This is pretty insane… and dangerous.

    • That. Was. Awesome 🙂 Thanks for sharing

  • George Major

    I’m using the Kipduino to build an RGB lamp that uses tricolor leds and a math.random method to determine the brightness of red, green, and blue using the analogout setting for the out pins.

    I’m also planning on adding ground, 5v and 3v dedicated pins to the Kipduino. Just need to find more female headers. Radio shack didn’t carry them. =O

    • Kevin

      I went to Radio shack today and the dude looked at me like i had 3 heads when I asked him if they carried any female/male headers.. They call the male headers “jumpers”

      • George Major

        Yeah those guys have no idea what half the stuff is that I buy. Last time they asked me what I needed I said “oh just an 8mhz ceramic oscillator” and I thought the guys head was gonna explode. XD

  • Mark Robles

    Is there any way to get another surface mount chip i broke some pins and i don’t think its going to work anymore

    • hector

      email the kipkay team theyll help you out i did the same thing LOL.

      • Mark Robles

        Thanks

      • Mark Robles

        how long did it take them to answer back?

  • Lavoz24

    Fellow SuperFans, I have to comment here and tell you. We need to be patient with Kip and his team. As with any DIY project, things will happen that will go wrong,why do you think YouTube has a bazillion videos on FAILS? LoL, that being said, I understand we want to achieve and excel in everything we do especially when we are the ones who are building it, reality is, things rarely go well on the first try. Do you think we would’ve have light bulbs if Edison would’ve given up after his first fail? Well, maybe Tesla would’ve taken over but you know what I mean.
    It’s like with any learning process, we must repeat to learn sometimes and go to others sources I.e.,YouTube,google,etc. to find help. Instead, we keep coming back here,asking questions,getting upset and bad mouthing when we don’t get a quick reply. It’s not fair to the Kipkay team and especially not fair to the rest of the SuperFans because it’ll scare and deter them from trying. I say this because I’ve been in this situation & AND I’M 39,lol.
    We should feel blessed that we get replacement parts FOR FREE and even have these forums to reference when we need help. Other Sites like AdaFruit,spark fun,etc. won’t do these things. They package it up,send it out and leave you to your wits. So this site is a blessing to us all because I can guarantee most of us have gained ALOT of knowledge and troubleshoot skills just by watching the videos.
    So please SuperFans, be fair, be patient,follow rules and please,please,please, READ EVERYTHING AND WATCH EVERY VIDEO IN COMPLETE BEFORE ASKING YOUR QUESTIONS. loL,smh. One of the biggest things I’ve read on here is people asking the same question when it’s been answered already,many times before. Again, that’s where PATIENCE comes in.
    As I said before, I’ve been where you are, I still haven’t completed my led cube nor my speakers because I keep running into issues but do I give up? NOPE, I have just set it aside for now until I can calm down and then I go back and troubleshoot using YouTube and google to find possible resolutions. Like you, in the beginning I got upset with Kipkay and his team because my questions weren’t being answered and I even thought about bad mouthing and then canceling my monthly subscriptions but after I calmed down, I realized I wouldn’t hurt anyone but myself and future DIYers because I would not get valuable info,lose out on these great kits and the low costs AND most important, probably deter others looking to join and become future dIYers. You don’t know the impact one little comment could have on a person who is new,has never done DIY projects and has been thinking about starting now. So I bucked up, took my losses,which really was me being inpatient, and kept going and that’s what I want everyone here to do. We are all here for the same thing. To build stuff from scratch and call it our own unique work of art. And yes it IS our own unique work of art even though others are building the same thing because WE BUILT IT! We soldered it, we cut the wires,made enclosures,etc. so it’s our unique work AND THAT’S SOMETHING TO BE PROUD OF IF YOU ASK ME! BUT, you won’t be able to say that if you keep being inpatient,asking questions in the wrong forum or bad mouthing this wonderful site just because your question or email wasn’t replied to in what you would consider to be a quick enough manner. It’s simply not fair and especially NOT NICE!
    So please, before you are quick to ask a question about something,watch the videos, read the replies in the forum, YouTube,google and especially TROUBLESHOOT your butts off. Put that multimeter to work. If you don’t know how to use one there’s a video on it here and YouTube has many,many more.
    I can guarantee,unless its a broken piece issue, if you go back,check and recheck using your multimeter you’ll find the issue.
    I hope this has helped some if not many. Yes,it’s a long read but I felt it needed to be said and I apologize if I’ve upset Kipkay and his team by writing this but I wrote it to encourage And not to put down.
    I don’t work for Kipkay,lol,although it would be great,lol. They haven’t asked me to write anything nor am I affiliated with them in any way. I’m not kissing anyone’s butt by writing this but I felt it needed to be said because I’m disabled and if I can do it,YOU CAN DO IT!!!
    All the best to everyone and keep DIYing!!! }:-D

    • Simon Anderson

      well said. 🙂

      • Lavoz24

        Thank you Simon! Read below and give me your input please. Thanks.

    • hector

      Amen to that! 🙂

      • Lavoz24

        Thank you all. I have always been into DIY but only the really easy stuff with plastics,fabrics,etc. and wasn’t able to do the electronics because parts were to high costing for me until I found KipKay on YouTube and I think if we are patient and go about it with an open mind we could and would learn ALOT from him. Besides, as far as I know, he’s the ONLY person to do and offer something like this and to me it’s a blessing so it hurts and upsets me when I read the things some people write on here just because they aren’t patient and on youtube,smh. i know some do it to troll and everywhere we go we will run into people who have nothing better to do so they troll but It’s not fair to us nor kipkay and his team when its done here because we have to read it and especially not fair to him and his team especially knowing all the work and effort that goes into making these kits,putting the parts list together,making the videos,etc.
        I am so glad George Major,The Doctor(which I haven’t seen anything from him in a while),Joe Scalisi and the many others that help us on here because you don’t have to do it but you understand how we feel and also by giving the help you also encourage everyone else to keep trying until completed. But even after all that help there is still issues with some and that’s what upsets me so I couldn’t hold it in any longer and had to write something.
        I will leave feed back and suggest a few things that WE, the SuperFans who have experience with electronics or have finished our project and its working,

        • Lavoz24

          Could do to help those that need it,like maybe once a week do a video academy to help those who need it. We can conference in and one person will be chosen as professor of the day to explain how they did it,what issues they had,etc. and go down the line asking questions about what issues are going on and address them there. Each class would be 2hrs. At most and the “professors” would be there on a volunteer basis. Also, instead of doing a monthly thing,for those having issues with their project,it could go on for 2 months and all we would pay is the $4.95 Internet fee but we would get directed to another page where there would be in depth explanations of the project,possible issues,solutions,etc. and also do a once a week 2hr. Academy on the building and troubleshooting. Then the month after move on to the next project. Eventually,most if not all will be caught up and have more knowledge and then those people would be the ones to become “professors” at the Kipkay DIY Academy. It’ll be called The Kipcademy for SuperFans and DIYers alike!
          That’s just a few ideas I have for this site and kip. I hope they give it serious thought and put it to work.

          • George Major

            I think a help group wouldn’t be a bad idea at all Lavoz. I think we could possibly diagnose some issues and also fix technique so I wouldn’t mind giving it a try. I could also try to document my builds in video as a resource for those who have trouble (probably wouldn’t be as good production as what you find here but they could be longer and more aimed at building from a beginners perspective) if you guys would want that let me know. I’m getting ready to start a new job so things may get chaotic soon though.

          • Guest

            Let me know how I can help! 🙂

          • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

            If we get something consistent, I’d love to help out by materials to contributors. I think videos are the easiest, and probably the fastest way to contribute. I believe YouTube allows for up to 15 mins, then you have to verify via the phone to upload longer videos. Simply upload, and I can then embed onto the page here, and everyone can use it as a resource!

          • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

            And as always, you can reach me at: support at kipkaykits 🙂

          • Jonathan Zackary Kayne

            Oh yeah, thanks for helping me get the kit, I really appreciate it! :3

          • Lavoz24

            That sounds great Jimmy,thanks! All we need to do now is get a few people to donate some time and we’ll be good to go. I have lots of time so I can donate as many as needed.

          • Lavoz24

            Sounds great George, jimmy says you can reach him at support and talk with him about it. Also we should do maybe a once a week or different people different day(those who have knowledge and have finished their project) project help on her.

          • George Major

            Next kit I will get something whipped up and put on my YouTube channel “CombatMajor”. I’ve got a bunch of random stuff on there already so I’m pretty sure I have the clearance to upload long videos. I will send it to Jimmy and if he thinks its good he will probably embed it.

          • Lavoz24

            Nice, imma go check it out and If I can help in any way I’m here.

    • George Major

      Nice man. I feel the same way. I’ve learned so much already from Kipkaykits and from Kip, his team, and the forum members.I’ve been pretty successful so far and because of that I’m trying my best to answer every question that I think I can handle. I really want KipKayKits to be a success and I want everybody to learn and have as much fun as I am, so please, stick with it even if the going gets tough. You CAN do it.

      • Lavoz24

        Thank you George! I appreciate it . Read what I wrote below and tell me what you think.

    • Jonathan Zackary Kayne

      Very true! I am only 15, but I have learned that “proper planning prevents poor procedure”. I always have difficulty plotting the pin connections, so I make a picture on graph paper and it works!
      I don’t like to write rude comments, because on YouTube, I get bullied a lot, so I know how it feels.
      I really appreciate it that there are people like Kipkay out there who have the resources to help us, and tbh, if it weren’t for him, I wouldn’t have began in my interest in electronics! This has helped in a way that is leading my future life to be successful!
      I also appreciate it that there are people like Lavoz24 who post comments of support to Kipkay and us!
      Thank-you.

      • Lavoz24

        Thanks Jonathan! I appreciate it and I’m sure kip does as well but we mustn’t forget jimmy, he has to deal with all our woes.
        I too got into DIY electronics or DIY period because of kip and I’m so happy I did. It feels good to know you were able to complete a project and you know how it works. If I could I would go for a DIY project a day for 30 days just to see what I could accomplish then have some type of competition to give them away.

  • Matt

    I’ve got the LED blinking so far! I can’t wait to continue but I have to stop somewhere and get a flux pen. Does anyone know where I can buy one?

    • George Major

      It looks really good so far!

    • Kevin

      Great job so far, Radioshack has some flux pens, but it isn’t necessary. Probably will make it easier since i had a hell of a time without one

  • joshua

    you can get a flux pen at radioshack

    • Matt

      Thanks!

  • bigred200

    in the video you say to put the 5v in 1 and ground in 8 but the schematic says 7 for 5v and 8 for ground which is right

    • George Major

      Always trust the schematic first.

      • bigred200

        Ok tks

  • eraso

    Does pin 22 an 25 need to have continuity or i did something wrong? for the FTDI chip

    • George Major

      If you put your positive on your continuity checker in the through-hole and your negative on the pin corresponding to the number of the through-hole you should get a continuity signal for each and every pin.

      start from the edges and keep moving over each pin and check the pins on each side of the one you are testing to be sure you don’t have any bridges. If you aren’t sure which pin goes to which hole, follow the integrated circuit trail.

  • bigred200

    HELP ME i built it exactly how it showed and used the 5v battery holder from the speaker kit to test it, the light did not come on so i went back checked the double checked and it was all correct no solder bridges except where they were supposed to be the i checked the led to see if it was bad it was not. what do i do know

    • George Major

      I actually put my LED in backwards when I did it so it didn’t work the first time but I knew what the problem was because I used my multimeter and determined that current was flowing through the circuit.

    • Guest

      Thats 4.5 volts. Try USB.

  • Kevin

    I have a quick question… on the kipduino, where is the ground located on the board for the ground on the binary clock?

  • Matt

    What kind of flux pen is best? Should I get one that you don’t have to clean the board after?

  • joseph scalisi

    sorry about the piss poor soldering job i did, but i can’t make the first led blink, any help?

    • Kevin

      From the looks of the picture, hard to tell cause of the quality, but it looks like pin 20 and 21 are bridged together, or its possible the led was soldered backwards,

      • joseph scalisi

        Thanks

  • Even though this looks a little bit overwhelming for my first project, I am very excited for it to come, I just have one question, Does the kit come with the wires needed?

    • Matt

      Yes it comes with wires pre cut and stripped

    • Mitch

      My first kit too! If you haven’t got the kit yet ill post a pic if you want

  • Kenny Cummings

    Someone help i broke pin 15 off of that surface mount chip what do i do

    • Simon Anderson

      look down comments, I think if you emailed the support you may get a replacement.

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Just placed the order for your replacement Kenny 🙂

      • Kenny Cummings

        Thank you very much. Will the order show up in my recent orders

  • Jonathan Zackary Kayne

    OK so here is how I make my preparations fir any project that uses perfboard… I use graph paper and draw out the board, and highlight the GND and Vcc/+5V connections.. I thought it might serve some use to everyone who might have trouble with this! (Kipkay, you might want to check my work though, or use it! :3 )

    • George Major

      Woah!

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      This is pretty epic. You should use graph paper next time!!!!

      • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

        Hey Jonathan, if you put this up in graph paper form and email it to [email protected] I’ll mail you something special 🙂

      • Jonathan Zackary Kayne

        I did use graph paper, although you cant really see the horizontal lines…

  • Mitch

    Kipduino got here!!!! Starting on friday hopefully!

    • George Major

      Remember to keep us updated on your progress and ask if you need help. Go slow, especially on the smd chip. 🙂

    • Mitch

      I will do george, i will keep you guys updated, its my first kit, got a cube and speaker on the way.

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Mitch, we’re all here for you! Let’s do it!

      • Mitch

        Thanks jimmy, do you know what i can use for the power rails or will one stripped wire work? I dont have a wire stripper but im planning on getting one.

        • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

          Yes, but stripped copper wire is stranded so you might have trouble keeping them together. If you have a copper coat hanger, that will work. Or you can just use solder.

          • Mitch

            Okay, cheers

  • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

    What did you guys think of the pre-tinned jumper wires included in this kit? Would it be helpful if we offered them as a package on the Kipkay Kits store?

    • joseph scalisi

      Do it up jimbo

    • George Major

      Useful.

    • bigred200

      yes you should put them in the store

  • Kevin

    Well This is my Binary clock Sort of… Its not working the way its supposed to as of yet.. I may need a little help if I am unable to fix the issue.. I have the code as well if anyone wants to take a look at it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIAfhm6m-XI

    • I can try to take a look at your code if you want 🙂

      • Kevin
        • Kevin

          I know nothing about coding arduino or coding in general, but I wanted to try and do something different than using the LED cube

          • George Major

            There is a book called “Getting Started with Arduino” by Massimo Banzi, co-founder of Arduino, that I found useful in getting started. My radio shack carries it.

        • Everything seems pretty good to me, sorry I couldn’t find your problem. Good luck 🙂

          • Kevin

            It’s alright, I wonder if the atmega8 chip has anything to do with it

  • Kenny Cummings

    In my opinion working with kipkay and his team would be the best job ever

  • Sondertruck83

    This month kit is a quite dificult but really cool ! Thank Kipkay !

    • Kenny Cummings

      Did you make a solder bridge from pin 1 on the chip to the button

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Ditto on that solder bridge from pin 1 to the momentary switch

      • Sondertruck83

        I need to make a solder bridge from the pin 1 to the momentary switch ?

        • Kenny Cummings

          Yes

          • Sondertruck83

            I have make the solder bridge but the LED doesn’t blink … I am damned.

  • joseph scalisi

    Guess who got the led to blink

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Congrats!

    • Kevin

      Way to go, What was wrong with it?

      • joseph scalisi

        A tiny bridge between pins 20 and 21

        • George Major

          Nice job Joseph! Good to hear you are having success!

  • snesfan

    I need some copper wire for the power rails and I’m in the UK so where would the best place be to buy some? I have looked on amazon but the only un insulated wire I could find was craft wire, would this be suitable?

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      You don’t necessarily need it. You just need something metal to connect it together. Coat hangers work. Craft copper also works.

      • snesfan

        Ok, thanks

    • Kevin

      You can also completely strip a wire, solder one end, pull other end tight, solder and cut. That’s what I did

  • Anthony Bailey

    The video says D- to pin 16 and D+ to 15, but the schematic shows the reverse.

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Schematic > video. Always

    • George Major

      It will only detect as a chip one way. If you computer tells you it can’t figure out what you are connecting you probably did it backwards. Experience…. Lol

  • Liam

    Hello!

    I’ve only just discovered Kipkay Kits, so decided to jump in at the deep end and get the Guru version of this one. Very impressed with delivery time to the UK (ordered it Friday night and arrived this morning!).

    I’m just about to get started with the 5x5x5 LED cube, but I would appreciate a full schematic of the kipduino and the connections to the LED cube drivers (25(?!) transistors and 3 off 3-8 Decoders). The wall of text in part 3 of these instructions just isn’t the same as a nice drawing…

    Does this exist? I can’t seem to find it anywhere on the site.

    As an aside, I didn’t get any solid copper wire to use as power and ground rails so will have to ‘accquire’ some from work tomorrow…

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Nice Liam.

      Let me see if we have that for you. Focus on the arduino first 😉

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Oh yeah to answer your question… there are 25 led outs and 5 columns. That’s 30 repetitive lines – a lot to put on a schematic. Definitely read the LED cube tutorial first (month 4) and see the functions of the transistor before you start.

  • I bought a Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station for my first iron. Does anyone else have this and have their opinions on it, I would be happy to hear your thoughts 🙂

  • Does anyone know a good tutorial for reading schematics? If so that would be very helpful 🙂

  • SNMT- HaVoC

    I made it after testing the USB power and started the smd.i bridged and broke the board.Would you be able to send a new chip and smd board to me please?

    • George Major

      Email support and they should try to help you out.

  • Austin Schenck

    I see allot of reports of broken SMD chips. I am almost tempted to not use the SMD chip when the kit gets here & just use my arduino to program the Kipduino… almost 🙂

    • George Major

      I would give it a shot first and you could always do that if you can’t get it to work. Just get two of the corners down and then swipe across somewhat slowly using basically no solder and it shouldn’t be too bad. I think most people mess up the chips once the are trying to remove bridges. Apply heat to your braided copper and it might take some time but eventually you will get it cleaned up.

  • bigred200

    i built up to the USB input and plugged it in no light so i check it 3 times its all good so i checked with a multimeter and i have no out put from pin 19 is this something i did and can fix or what tks ps the led works

  • Anthony Bailey

    So far when I plug this in my computer the yellow led on the atmega blinks fine but the green/yellow on the ftdi goes on briefly but soon after the yellow comes and stays on then so on with the green. I rechecked everything with the schematic and it seems right to me.

  • John

    Kit landed a day late for April (got on board late!). Are there any suggested suppliers for additional parts?

  • I think you guys sent me something wrong, Look at the huge size difference :/
    Mine says 1.27 MM while the video says 0.65 MM, also the parts don’t match up

    • joseph scalisi

      can’t tell if trolling or not…

      • Oh god, i feel stupid #FirstDIYProjectProbs

        • joseph scalisi

          this is your first diy? i wish you luck

        • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

          HAHA!

          • Bought some flux, soldering iron came today and my solder and helping hands come tuesday. Can’t wait. Also picked up some old printers and VCR’s to rip apart at a rummage sale today. Having a lot of fun 😀

    • joseph scalisi

      if you are serious, flip the board over, if not, ya got me friend

    • Austin Schenck

      Haha, I just got my kit in the mail today, and having seen this, that was the first thing I checked. I thought I had the same problem until I flipped the board over, and re-read the comments >_<

      For clarification to anyone else who might have seen the same thing, just flip the board over and the chip should fit.

  • hector

    Need some help I have gotten to the point to where you hook it up to the computer through arduino but now none of the lights turn on they used to turn on now they don’t, also my computer is saying USB hub power surge on the port I have it plungedin to. Please help thanks.

    • Austin Schenck

      I don’t know much about this kind of thing, but it almost sounds like a short circuit somewhere near the USB power connections drawing too much current (exceeded the power limits), which could also cause the power to bypass your circuit (none of the lights turn on). But like I said I don’t know much about it.

      • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

        That’s close

  • sparkymccloud

    Has anyone else not received this months project? I still haven’t gotten mine.

    • Mitch

      Where do you live and when did you order. Im in uk and mine got here within 2 weeks. Email support or you can view the invoice and track it.

      • sparkymccloud

        I live in California, less than 30 miles where the kits are shipped from.

        • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

          Time for you to email support at kipkaykits 😛

  • Mitch

    Anyone or jimmy? Could someone tell me where the pins go, it doesnt say on the steps 🙂

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      which pins? yes the steps cover it 🙂

  • awallaz

    OK, I’ve gotten to the point of the build where all thats left is to wire up the I/O. So I figured I’d try and upload a sketch to see it the FTDI breakout board and the atmega8 could talk to each other. No such luck. I selected “Arduino NG or older w/atmega8”
    from the board menu, but when I try to upload, the IDE returns this error:

    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

    • George Major

      Did you replace the boards file with the one that has the correct settings for the ATmega8? It is in the programming section of this month.

      • awallaz

        Wow. Thank you so much! I hadn’t even looked in the programming section. It’s working perfectly now!

        • George Major

          Awesome! Thats good to hear. 🙂

  • Mark Robles

    My led is blinking but it is way to fast did i do something wrong?

    • Frank Daniel

      Mine was fast too. I think it was just a different program preloaded on the chip. I uploaded the Blink example from the Arduino program, as well as a custom program of mine, and it blinked at the correct rate.

  • Thomas

    I will be putting an Instructable up shortly on the Kipduino. The working title is currently
    “How to fail at the Kipduino and burn the crap out of yourself in the
    process.” The cast will include: Forty year old eyes with an out
    dated prescription, Twenty year old solder station with fine tip gone blunt,
    and six beers.

    • George Major

      Oh man. Sounds like you need some backup!

      • Thomas

        I called in the heavy artillery and this should be sorted out soon. My eleven year old daughter is checking the schematic against my wiring and if that is sorted out she will check continuity and look for soldier bridges. In the mean time she gave me her Snap Circuits kit to use to brush up.

        • George Major

          Thats awesome. Sounds like you have a bright one. Good luck!

    • Frank Daniel

      Spoilers! haha.

  • ilikegoat

    Hey Kip! I just wanted to know if the power rail is included in the beginner kit, I cant seem to find it. Can I use the tube with the solder for it?

    • Frank Daniel

      It wasn’t included in even the Hobbyist kit. I happened to have some extra wire lying around from other projects. If you don’t, you could also make a row of solder bridges across the lines where the rails would have been.

      • ilikegoat

        so solder is a conductor, im guessing?

        • Frank Daniel

          Yup. Not as good as copper, but solder bridges will do in a pinch.

          • ilikegoat

            Do i burn down the solder using an iron? or do I cut the tin and solder on both sides?

          • ilikegoat

            How would this look like? Would I burn the solder with my iron? Or will I solder the edges to stay in place so it looks like a wire

      • Joshua Post

        I stripped some CAT5 cable to get some very small copper wire

  • bigred200

    HELP ME ive built 2 of theese and both of them have no output from pin 19 what can i do to fix this PLEASE HELP

    • George Major

      Which pin 19 are you having trouble with? IC chip or SMD?

      • bigred200

        ic chip the led will not light up i checked with a multimeter and there is no output

        • George Major

          Okay. It will only show output when it is supposed to flash, it wouldn’t show anything at other times. How far into the builds are you? That will dictate what we can do as far as further diagnosis.

          Try to get your multimeter set up on the pin, then hit reset and tell me if you get a voltage for second.

          • bigred200

            There is no output for even a second when u press it and i built up to the USB (i did not have a 5v cord) also this is the seccond one I’ve done and the same thing happend on both

          • George Major

            Damn. I was kinda hoping that would work. You have power running everywhere else in the board? The stock code should blink pin 19….
            Seems like there are a couple options here:

            You’ve made misinterpreted something and made a small mistake on your builds (happens to everyone) that isn’t letting your chip function correctly.
            (Power? , oscillator wrong pin?, tiny bridge?)

            Chips do not have the correct code to blink pin 19 and need to be reprogrammed?

  • ilikegoat

    so how do can i get a ground rail when it isnt included in the kit

    • George Major

      Use any solid copper wire. Try a coat hanger if you don’t have any.

      • ilikegoat

        Alright, hopefully it works, thanks for the help

      • ilikegoat

        also, how will i go about this build without a copper wire? Can I use solder for the ground rail

        • George Major

          The wire is really only to make it easier to make your connections that all go together. You can put all of the grounds in a line on your board and solder bridge them together to get the same effect as having the wire.

          You can do the same with everything that needs to run to 5v positive on the other side.

        • George Major

          Heres a photo of what it looks like.

          • ilikegoat

            So i wouldnt need those red and black insulated wires?

          • George Major

            For that project I put all the wires on the other side, but same concept.

          • ilikegoat

            sorry for the dumb questions, im new to this, 4:28 of the video, do i put a different copper wire for negative and positive of the barrel jack or do I use the same one. Thanks!

  • Kevin

    I am confused why you gave us the tiny SSOP4-28 chip when it would be much easier for novice/beginners to use the SOP4-28 side of the board? I can handle the rest of the project no problem but this SMD stuff is too much. I have a super fine tip 1/64″ conical tip and that is even still too big. We are DIY Novice/Beginners not rocket scientists.

    • Kenny Cummings

      Really flip it over

      • Kevin

        I know what side the chip goes on. I’m asking why did he give us the smaller chip when it would be easier for beginners to use the other side of the board

        • Bryan

          Most likely a sourcing issue. Either the larger package size was more expensive or there were none in that size available. Sourcing this stuff can be quite a chore.

    • Lavoz24

      Granted most if all aren’t rocket scientists. Thing is, I wouldn’t be upset with kip as he sent out a pre-video explaining everything he was going to send, a sneak preview which I think was a good idea because it gave us all the option of whether or not to get this months kit and even if you didn’t see the video we still had/have ample chance to NOT get this months kit. He even made a separate video on SMD soldering and gave us links to other videos on it. Matter of fact, he stressed it ALOT. So even though this months kit has SMD soldering and some can’t or don’t know how to do it, you can’t be upset with kip or his team and ask him why he did this. He does encourage us all,constantly, to try new things. You can’t be afraid and give up without trying. Where would we be if our great inventors gave up before they tried? Or even gave up after constantly trying and failing?
      I’m not trying to come down hard on you. I’m just trying to give you some type of encouragement and explain, you can’t get upset with people if you can’t do something and ask why would they sell something like this to novice/beginners. Especially after its explained in detail what’s needed.
      I’m certain you wouldn’t go back to Walmart and ask them why would they sell something to someone who buys it and can’t do it,would you?
      Again, I’m not trying to put you down, everyone fails at one point or another. I myself have failed something awful but I keep trying because when I’m done I’ll be able to say, I DID THIS”

      • Kevin

        I’m not scarred to try anything. I’m not confused why he sent this kit to us. All I want to know is why did they send us the super small chip when they might have been able to send us a small but somewhat bigger chip that goes on the opposite side of the pcb that we are using this month.

        I’m not sure what you mean about we have the choice to not get the kits each month. I signed up for monthly billing so I get the kits no matter what. In fact they are getting way behind on the billing and shipping of kits. I’m about a month behind on when I am billed and when I get my kits. I hope they catch up soon as this is another frustrating issue with kipkay

        • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

          Kevin. Cost considerations go into the design of the kits as well as what we want our kit builders to learn. You gotta do SMD soldering in the future, might as well start now 😉 We actually used the cheapest soldering irons and it is still possible to solder it – it just takes a little bit of patience.

          • Kevin

            Ok so i was able to get the SMD portion done. Sometimes a fresh start helps. So now i moved onto main board. I started working off the schematic cause that is easier for me. When I got to the capacitors on the oscillator the schematic says 0.1uF. So i put them down neatly and soldered. Then i went back to the video and it says the oscillator should have the 22nF capacitors. Am i missing something here? I know now i should have double checked but why is the schematic conflicting with the install write up and video?

          • Joshua Post

            I noticed that as well, but I used the 22 capacitors on the oscillator and it is working for me, so I would change them out

          • Kevin

            Why is there so many discrepancies between the write up instructions and the schematic? The d+ and d- are reversed between the two. I know someone commented that if the computer doesn’t recognize the board then the pins are reversed. But why should we have to figure that out? You guys said you trouble shouted this project so why is this info misleading. I love diy electrical projects but its tough to follow when there are discrepancies like this that i am running into

        • Lavoz24

          Well, maybe he wanted us to improve on our soldering skills. Whatever the reason, they were sent and it won’t change so we just have to learn how to use what we have.
          As for you not understanding what I mean about “being able to cancel” I shall explain even though it is clearly explained in the site…. If at any point we don’t want to be SuperFans or get that months kit we could cancel our membership for that month and just sign-up again next month. I’ve done it, even having monthly billing, as I’m sure others have as well. It’s even written on the sign up page pretty big.
          As for getting behind on the kits, we must be patient and give them a chance to catch up. If you can see, kip has to make his monthly videos,edit them, not to mention the kits, troubleshooting, parts,etc. and yes he does have a staff but we are humans and as humans there is only so much we can do in such a short time. If you have any issues with anything, email them. There’s a link to the left that will take you to the page and Jimmy will be more than happy to respond. We just need to be patient.
          I’m certain kip and his team are doing what they can to make sure everyone gets their replies and whatever help they need. I suggest if you don’t get a reply after 2 weeks send another and wait. All my replies get answered and they are always friendly and helpful and satisfactory. I hope this helps out a bit. All the best and as always, you’ll catch more flies with honey than vinegar. Make today a great day.

        • Lavoz24

          For SMD soldering I suggest using a chisel tip or a
          bevel tip as suggested by the videos Kipkay has up on soldering. A conical tip won’t to well for SMD as the heat isn’t distributed properly so you will run into issues.
          If that doesn’t work or you don’t have these type of tips someone on her suggested using a heat gun and I suggest using a blow dryer. I know of someone who used a blow dryer and it worked. I also suggest using flux/soldering paste because it helps big time. If you run into issues, Kipkay has sections on resistors,capacitors,soldering,etc. and even links on each to help you further. You should check them out. I’m certain they will help you ALOT. They sure helped me a bunch.
          All the best.

  • Andrew O’Shea

    When it came to testing out the LED I used a 6v adapter because I couldn’t find a 5v adapter and the chip became very hot and I want to know if I damaged the chip, if I did would I have to get another one from you or could I pick one up from a electronics store?

    • George Major

      See if it still works. If it doesn’t you could probably buy one online for cheap but sometimes they send out replacements… Email support if it doesn’t work. I wouldn’t risk overvolting things in the future as you could ruin your builds

  • Frank Daniel

    It’s done! SMD soldering was easily the most time-consuming and frustrating part but once I got past that everything else went great. I already have an Arduino but I loved building this. Plus mine doesn’t have a removable chip like this one.

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Glad that you got it working!

  • Joshua Post

    I (possibly stupidly) purchased the Guru kit as my first project, in hopes that between 2 kits I can get one going. I’m ready to solder on the DC jack, but it says to see Step 3 for the switching circuit and while I see a schematic, I’m really lost as to how to actually wire it correctly, as the steps are laid out like they are in Step 1, which is how simple I’m needing it. Should I just forget the switching circuit on this first one and plan on doing it for the second, or anyone have any tips?

    • George Major

      Repost… Wrong initial place.
      It seems fairly simple as far as what to put where. Usb positive pin to fuse, fuse to the side of the diode without stripe and other side connect to power +

      Dc jack positive to side of diode without stripe and connect other side to power positive.

      Negative on usb goes to capacitor and the other side of the capacitor it shows to positive as well.

      All your connections to positive will go to the positive rail or whatever you are using instead of a rail.
      Put them anywhere on the board they will fit.
      You could totally leave it out on your first board if it seems like too much for you at this point and want to get more comfortable first. 😉

      Side note CALLING ENGINEERS:
      Can someone with more engineering background tell me what purpose the ground to capacitor to positive and the positive and negative rails joined with a capacitor specifically does for the design? I just am curious and want to know.

      • Bryan

        I am no engineer, but, it sounds like you are talking about the 0.1pf decoupling caps. They basically smooth out any noise in the power supply and isolate the device from the rest of the circuit. This basically makes the circuit stable and predictable.

        • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

          Correct!

      • Joshua Post

        I think the schematic not showing a dedicated power rail is what was throwing me. I wasn’t sure if I would connect the Power+ to the FTDI or not, but with your explanation, it sounds like I would go from the other side of the diode directly to the positive power rail. I’m not sure what the resettable fuse looks like, but I’m starting to think it may be missing from my kit, furthering my confusion. It looks like I only got 2 diodes and one capacitor with x72 xf050 written on it, so looks like I can only do one Arduino with the switching circuit anyway. These came in a bag with parts for the LED cube, so that confused me.

        Looking at the schematic, the fuse looks similar to a capacitor so maybe this bigger capacitor is it?

        On the schematic, all of the capacitors are shown as 0.1uF, but some of mine have 22 printed on them and others have 104. Does the schematic not specify the exact capacitor? (Not sure what 0.1uF even means)

        I’m also interested in making sure that there should be a capacitor between the positive and negative rail, as it appears to indicate…

        • George Major

          uf stands for microFarad. The ones with 22 on them 22 nanoFarad. If you look at the instructions the 22 nf capacitors are used for the 16mhz oscillator in instead of the 0.1 mf capacitors as the schematic says.

          Yes as you can see all of the red wires are connected on the schematic, so you can run the diodes to the power rail and then from there to the ftdi chip.

          I don’t know what the fuse should look like but the thing with the f’s and X’s you have could be it because I don’t remember anything I have saying that in mine.

          Yes the capacitor between power and ground is in fact there and it works fine like that. I was just wondering why exactly.

          Hope this helps. If you have any more questions let me know. 🙂

          • Joshua Post

            Got the power circuit going. Now takes either 5v DC jack or USB power correctly.

          • George Major

            Awesome! Nice job Joshua!

  • George Major

    It seems fairly simple as far as what to put where. Usb positive pin to fuse, fuse to the side of the diode without stripe and other side connect to power +

    Dc jack positive to side of diode without stripe and connect other side to power positive.

    Negative on usb goes to capacitor and the other side of the capacitor it shows to positive as well.

    All your connections to positive will go to the positive rail or whatever you are using instead of a rail.
    Put them anywhere on the board they will fit.
    You could totally leave it out on your first board if it seems like too much for you at this point and want to get more comfortable first. 😉

    Side note CALLING ENGINEERS:
    Can someone with more engineering background tell me what purpose the ground to capacitor to positive and the positive and negative rails joined with a capacitor specifically does for the design? I just am curious and want to know.

  • Andrew O’Shea

    The LED is turned on but its not blinking! The reset button works though. I tripled check my soldering connections and everything was neat and clean… do you think its because of a bad chip?

  • Andrew O’Shea

    Idk what Im doing wrong. The LED turned on but it wasnt blinking but the reset switch worked. Now for some reason it doesn’t work at all and the chip just gets really hot. I tripled checked everything and I have no clue.. can anyone help me? I honestly think I screwed up the chip, this is the second time I bought the kit and I’m starting to get a little frustrated lol

    • George Major

      If it is getting hot that doesn’t sound good. There might be a small bridge somewhere causing a short . Your work looks really good to me from the pictures but I don’t know. Maybe the reset button got stuck in contact or something? Also check that all the connections go to the right pins.

      • MikeH

        Are you using the right voltage power supply? if you use too much it will burn it up….you should only be using 5v

  • Lavoz24

    Does anyone have a completed guru kit duiono? If so, could you please put up a pic? I would like to see the 2 diodes and the switching fuse used. Thanks.

    • Joshua Post

      I don’t have my entire board built, but I was able to get this much going. I’ll try to get a picture tonight if you are still looking for it.

      • Lavoz24

        Yes,please. I would appreciate it. Thanks.

        • Joshua Post

          Not sure why it is rotating my pictures around funny, but here are some before I got the extra board installed. From the DC power jack Positive, to the side of the diode that does not have the silver stripe. Silver stripe end to the Positive rail. From the USB Positive to the “resettable fuse” that looks like a capacitor with kinks in the leads. From the fuse to the side of the diode that does not have the silver stripe. Silver stripe end to the positive rail. That is it.

          I am regretting the location of the diode from the DC power jack as I now am seeing that it will interfere with the preferred location of the two additional LEDs and I’m still thinking about what I want to do about that.

          • Lavoz24

            Thanks

  • Lavoz24

    Alas, today I will begin building my HECduino. YaYyYyYy(echo)!!! LoL!

  • Mark Robles

    Does any one know how long it takes customer support to answer back?

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Typically 24 hours, but sometimes when we’re out of stock on replacements 2-3 days 😛

  • Joshua Post

    Ok, SMD is getting the better of me. Got one corner mounted and then attempted to do the other pins and managed to get the entire side bridged as one giant connection. Using the desoldering wick doesn’t seem to be helping as it isn’t going to the wick at all.

    At this point I’m trying to remove the chip entirely to see if I got solder under it, but since I can’t get any of it to follow the wick, I don’t seem to be making any progress.

    Its all so small!

    • Bryan

      I had the same issue. What I ended up doing is using a de-soldering iron to pull up any excess (you could use the wick). Then I put the assembly (the chip and break-out board) under a heat gun until the solder re-flowed. Next, I pulled the chip (careful its very hot) off the board with tweezers and set it aside (it had no bridges in the legs). There were very small brides between the pads on the break-out board. You can use the de-soldering wick and a hobby knife to carefully remove the excess solder. Then ensure there are no bridges by testing the thru-hole connections on the outside edge of the break-out board with a multi-meter as shown in the video. Once I was sure there were no shorts on the pads themselves I carefully aligned the chip back on to the break-out board. This is important, it needs to be centered and square or else the legs themselves can bridge the pads. Lastly, I used the heat gun to re-flow once again (there is still residual solder even after wick’ing it up). Doing this led to a surprisingly good solder joint on the SMD, almost looks like I used solder paste. Heat Guns are about <$25 at any home improvement store, de-soldering irons are <$20 at RadioShack. Both are good tools to have, the heat gun is useful for DIY projects around the home too!. Good Luck.

      • Joshua Post

        Thanks for the idea. My wife had an embossing heat gun that I used to get the chip off and clean up the board, but I still ended up with a mess when I tried to put it back on using my iron. I just re-read your post to see about using the heat gun to reflow the solder again and I may give that a try.

        At this point I still have one fairly large bridge on the chip itself before I even put it on the board that I can’t remove. I can get it to liquify between the pins, but I can’t get it to spread to other pins to balance it out and my solder wick isn’t picking it up.

        Any additional tips?

        • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

          With the solder wick, drag outwards, horizontally, in a parallel motion to the pins / same direction as the pins. With the wick, it’s also easier to slant the soldering iron.

        • Bryan

          When the wick won’t cut it…A well placed burst of air will remove the solder from the loose chip once you have it melted. If you do not have a de-soldering iron you could use a drinking straw or some other source of tightly focused air to blow the solder out. This may seem obvious but it is worth saying.. Use pliers or some other tool to keep your fingers away. Do not suck in on the straw and when you blow the solder out it is going to spray out everywhere, so direct the air downwards and towards some sort of material that can handle the heat from the molten solder.

          • Joshua Post

            Thanks. I had a rocket blower that I use to clean my camera and was able to blow out the one small bridge I had left.

        • Joshua Post

          I think I have it! It looks awful, but testing each pin shows a connection and no shorts between them. Next step, mount it to the main board.

          • Bryan

            Awesome! You will experience Arduino bliss in no time.

    • Lavoz24

      You could also use a hair dryer as someone else I know did and it worked for them. All you need is patience. All the best.

  • sparkymccloud

    If i didn’t buy the guru kit ans only have the hobbyist kit, what can i do with my newly built kipduino? Are you going to come out with kits which we can utilize it?

    • George Major

      The kit will work essentially the same for hobbiest and guru. Guru just gets more extras. You can do really anything you could think of with the board given you don’t need more pins than you have. Look online for easy Arduino (or Arduino Uno, as that is basically the board you have now) projects. If you wanted to learn more, buy an Arduino kit from radio shack or the book “Getting Started with Arduino”.

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Yes. This month’s laser kit will utilize arduino, and most of the kits after 🙂

      • sparkymccloud

        Awesome! Can’t wait!

  • Bryan

    I finished everything except for connecting the io headers. I am able to program the Arduino and receive data off the serial line. I modified the board layout/routing a bit to save on wire. Thank you for an awesome kit!

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      AMAZING!

  • Mark Robles

    Does anyone know how i can get another smd chip? i email kip kay kits about two weeks ago but they havent answered

  • Ändrew Motz

    So I got a questions here. I am basically done and am on the last check point..however my computer doesnt see anything…all the serial points are blank. Looked over wiring and didnt see anything either…any tips?

    • George Major

      Did you look in your device manager(Windows) to see what you have, if anything, in COM ports?

      • Ändrew Motz

        Nothing shows up when I plug it in…works with my Arduino duemilanove though.

        • George Major

          Its hard to tell if its a software or a hardware issue. Could be data wires are swapped, smd is wrong, Windows is having a problem detecting(mine was doing that and had to restart). Really a whole bunch of reasons

          • Bryan

            I would suspect the soldering first and the software second (although restarting the computer is a good idea just to be sure). That FT232R is a bugger to get right. Try using a magnifying glass and take a real close look at the pins of the SMD chip to make sure they are not bridged but still soldered to the pad. Try applying pressure to the chip from the top as you plug it in… if your computer see’s it then you have a bad solder on one or more of the pads.

          • Ändrew Motz

            I did a continuity test with the good ol multimeter and it all check out….is it possible I need some sort of drivers?

          • Bryan

            Your PC should recognize the device without the drivers installed. Once the device shows up in Device Manager (perhaps as unknown) then you should go to the FTDI website and grab the driver.

      • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

        For checking FTDI, a continuity test using a multimeter is your best bet!

        • Lavoz24

          Hey Jimmy, I wanted to let you know I really appreciate the tinned wires! }:-D It has made putting this kit together ALOT easier. Especially them being solid too!!! Keep up the awesome work you and everyone at Kipkay kits are doing for us. I’m so happy to know there are people out there willing to put in their time and knowledge to help others man. Thank you and thumbs way up!!!

      • sparkymccloud

        Hi Mr. Major,
        Question: did you ever fix your problem with your arduino?
        I was reading that you had a light that wouldn’t light up or do anything. I have the same problem. I have power going to all the pins except 19 even when I press the button, I get nothing. I have checked and double checked all of my connections and I don’t see any bridges or anything. it pretty much is a mirror image of the one they built. I was wondering if you could help.

        • George Major

          When mine had that problem it ended up correcting itself somehow. After I got the code uploaded and reset it started working right again. Mine was more at stage 3 vs stage one when it decided to go a little wonky with the light. I think it may have had something to do with my other problem which was it refusing to upload sketches. I discovered that the freaking BASIS Science sync app for the Basis band was trying to do something to it via Com port so nothing would go through. Terminated the program and everything works fine after that.

          I know its frustrating when things don’t work out right…
          I know someone else was having the exact same problem with pin 19 and the light at your stage, but I don’t think they ever mentioned that they fixed it on here. I don’t recall the user name but if you check the comments I have replied to from my profile you will probably find it and you could ask them if they got it sorted out.

          As far as what could be causing… solder bridges can be hard to see sometimes and it may be obstructing the chip even though you seem confident its not. Remember Occum’s razor. Positive and negative rails actually connected to positive and negative power? Every wire goes to the correct pin? What happens to the other pins when we hit reset? Anything we can use to confirm its actually resetting? Chip seated fully in IC holder with pins not bent? Chip perhaps not programmed correctly?

          Sorry I can’t be of more help to you. Let me know if you find out anything. Remember, don’t give up!

          • sparkymccloud

            So I went step by step with the video and the written instruction and I noticed that they gave the wrong ceramic capacitors. They gave 204 capacitors instead of the 22nf that connect to the crystal timer. Is it possible that is the problem? I get power everywhere on the board. There is no power drop or gain when I press the reset button and there are no bridges anywhere, I have triple checked.

          • George Major

            No 22nfs at all in your kit? If your oscillator wont occillate that could definitely be a problem. By reset i just meant with the reset switch.

          • sparkymccloud

            Nope none. I got a one 204 and 2- 104. I just went to RadioShack and bought a .022uf polyester film capacitor and some more 0.1uf capacitors. Will the .022uf work in place of the 22nf?

          • George Major

            That should be the same as 22 nf

          • sparkymccloud

            How do I reset the chip? Do I have to get a new one?

  • ilikegoat

    4:28, do we connect the same copper wire to both barrel jacks?

  • Joshua Post

    My Multimeter doesn’t have the little sound wave setting that I see in most places in regards to testing continuity. It is a 803B model that does have a Diode test. The manuals I found online has one that calls it Diode and Continuity Test
    http://www.papou.byethost9.com/DT830/
    but another says to use the 2000 ohm setting to test continuity
    http://jbryant.eu/pages/DMM.htm

    When I’m using the Diode test to look for bridges on my SMD chip, I’m getting around 400 across multiple pins, sometimes it changes to 1 after it sits for a bit. Do I really have a bridge, or would I be looking for a different number? I measured on one obvious bridge and I was getting 0002 or 0001 which I know it a bridge, but wasn’t sure about the other pins that were giving me 400-500 or if I was even in the right mode for my cheapo multimeter. I know it won’t sound an beep when there is continuity, but can I still use this device?

    • Bryan

      You can use either mode but diode is probably the best for testing continuity.The beep is basically a convenience feature so one does not need to look up at the display when testing for continuity.What you are looking for is little to no resistance (0001 or 0002 qualifies). If you find some resistance across some pins that could be resistance that is internal to the chip (probably no bridge). I noticed some resistance on some pins when I was testing it.

      • Joshua Post

        Thanks, that helped me be more confident in what I was doing. Some pins had 400-600, some had pretty consistent 1800, but when I was directly connected, it was showing next to nothing, as you mentioned.

  • ilikegoat

    4:28, instructions unclear in the video, do I use different copper wire for the negative and positive on the barrel jack?

    • Bryan

      You will need two different stiff (solid) wires to connect the pins of the barrel jack to the pcb. I used the part of the LED legs that I cut off in earlier steps.

      • ilikegoat

        Thanks so much!

  • sparkymccloud

    I don’t know what else to do. So I completed it till the first check point but I get nothing. My LED doesn’t even light up. I checked the voltage with my meter and I get power everywhere except the at pin 19 where the led is attached. My board is almost identical to the examples. I went step by step to the pictures and the video.

    • Bryan

      Set your multimeter up to read DC voltage. Put your black probe on pin 8 and your red on pin 7, then black on pin 22 and red on pin 21, then black on 22 and red on 20. You should see +5V on all of these test points. If you don’t unplug the arduino from power and test your rails. Put your meter in continuity mode and put one probe on the +5V rail and touch the other probe pin 7, 21 and 20, you should get a beep or little to no resistance. Then test the ground rail by putting one lead on the ground rail and touching pin 8 and 22. Next put a probe on the back of the power jack (the + pin connection) and on pin 7 of the ship. Last put your probe on the ground pin of the power jack and pin 8 on the chip. This will ensure you have power going to the chip where it needs to be. You should not get power everywhere, that would be bad. If you have a flat bed scanner, scan (instead of a photographing) the solder side of your board and we can check for potential issues.

      • sparkymccloud

        Thanks for the info. I finally figured it out. They sent me wrong capacitors which I connected to the crystal timer. There was power everywhere except pin 19. So I checked the contacts at the capacitors and the timer and it was at like one eighth of the power what it should have been. So I went to RadioShack and got the right capacitors and works perfect.

        • George Major

          Awesome! The board can’t tell time without the oscillator so it makes sense. Glad you got it working. Btw i cant wait for the laser tripwire!

          • sparkymccloud

            Neither can I!

          • ilikegoat

            Help, Ive put everything in correct connections for the first checkpoint but the LED doesnt power up.
            http://imgur.com/FS3HmYu
            http://imgur.com/tDIMBgK#1

          • George Major

            Do you have a multimeter to test your pins? Maybe you have the same problem as sparkymccloud just did

          • ilikegoat

            dont have one 🙁 I have a picture of the wires not connected to the pins or anything:

            http://imgur.com/ExXzd3C

          • George Major

            The biggest thing is to make sure you have no tiny bridges and made sure that the led is in the right way or else it wouldn’t light up.

          • ilikegoat

            does it matter if theres a bridge to something that wont be connected to anything?

          • George Major

            It could potentially cause problems depending on how the chip is programmed and what functions the pin has. Definitely avoid them at all costs. If you mean just empty throughholes on the breadboard that should be fine as long as it does take up too much space or contact anything.

  • ilikegoat

    Help, Ive put everything in correct connections for the first checkpoint but the LED doesnt power up.

    • Bryan

      Those caps next to the crystal look a bit large and might be the 0.1uf caps. They need to be 22pf (despite what the schematic might say) the 0.1uf caps overload the xtal and prevent it from oscillating.

      Check the number on them if it is “104” then you need to replace them with the caps that say “22”.

  • ilikegoat

    How would I go about removing the ATMEGA8 board? It doesnt seem to be coming off

    • Bryan

      Once you have the socket soldered to all pins of the perf board use a small screw driver to gently pry the chip out. Start on one end then move to the other to slowly work the chip up straight from the socket. If you just do one side all of the pins on the opposing side will be bent.

      • ilikegoat

        Thanks soo much with the capacitor help! My led blinks 😀

        • Bryan

          Glad you got it working.

          • ilikegoat

            Another problem in the SMD soldering, I messed up and the pins are bent…. what can I do now

          • Bryan

            That’s a rough one. You may be able to bend the pins back into shape with some tweezers and patients.

            You may need a new chip if its too far out of shape. The spacing is very tight. I would give support a try if it comes to that.

          • ilikegoat

            Is there a price to it? My dad will get angry if we have to pay for a new chip, this is my first project,thats why Im making tons of mistakes

          • Bryan

            I am not sure if there would be cost associated. I am just a forum member like yourself. E-mail [email protected] to find out, they may be able to send you a replacement.

            Keep at it though, this is not an easy first kit mainly because of the tight spacing on the SMD. If you get the ftdi chip partially soldered down just remember not to pry on it. You would need a hot air gun and tweezers to remove it without damaging the chip or the traces on the break out board.

  • Nathan

    When I plug mine in to type b connector nothing happens but if I connect a 5v source to the underside of the type b connector it works just fine. any ideas?

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Check the shield. it may be grounded where it’s not supposed to

      • Nathan

        Shield checked and no mis-grounds. I can use the internal pins as well with some wires and it works as well so I’m not sure what to do here.

  • Alan

    I have the Guru kit with parts for two arduinos and a 5×5 cube. Questions:
    1. For the cube it came with 25 NPN transistors (1/column) but i expected that there would be current limiting resistors for each column and each row. Am I missing these or are the not needed?

    2. In one of the lists i read that the Guru comes with a wallwart power source. It didn’t. Should it have?

    3. For the supplied arduino chips I received one ATMEGA 328 and one ATMEGA 8. Is that correct?

    Thanks

    • Joshua Post

      I can confirm that my Guru kit came with the wallwart power supply in a separate box.

      I checked both of my tins and both included the 328 chip

      • Alan

        Joshua,

        Thanks for reponding. Can you also tell me if you received resistors that connect to the Base and the Collector of each transistor? If so, what is the value for each?

        Thanks,
        Alan

        • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

          Usually current limiting resistors goes anywhere from 68 to 330ohms. We just don’t use it because it’s a hassle, but it’s good practice (in general) to use current limiting resistors on LEDs.

          • Joshua Post

            I’m just about done building the cube and will be moving toward the wiring for the line decoders soon. From this reply, it sounds like while using a resistor to the LED is recommended, you don’t feel it is necessary.

            In the LED cube directions it looks like there were 2 resistors going to the base of each transistor. When you say a resistor isn’t necessary, do you mean both aren’t required, or only one of them?

            It also appears that in the original LED cube directions, you used transistors for the + connection for each layer, but in the directions on the Part 3 page for the Arduino Guru project, it looks like the transistors are used for each column instead. Are there any used for the layers as well, or only for the columns?

        • Joshua Post

          Jimmy already replied, but I did not receive any resistors for the LED cube part. I haven’t made it that far in my kit yet so I haven’t even started it

        • Joshua Post

          Did you get your cube built? I finally finished mine this past weekend and it is working! Right now my code just walks through each LED individually but working on more patterns now.

          • Alan

            I got it working with a proto-Board. It took awhile to get the software to work – but I got it going.. let me know if you want a copy of my modified version of some code. I decided to use this project to
            learn and build a PCB using the toner transfer method. So far my first
            try has failed on getting the print to transfer. I hope to try again
            soon. 🙂

          • Joshua Post

            Glad you go it going. I wouldn’t mind having a copy of your code to reference later, but right now I’m trying to max out what I can come up with myself before looking too closely at other’s

            I’ve randomly been having issues with the Kipduino saying that the signature is invalid when uploading but if I unplug it and plug it back in it seems to usually start working.

            For powering the line decoders and column grounds I extended the positive and ground rails from the Kipduino to main board and so far I’ve been using USB. I did try using my multimeter on some of the Kipduino pins and when I had it set to stay on, I was only getting around 3V, rather than the 5V I expected.

            Any thoughts on if I’m overloading what can be done with just the USB connection, or will I blow something up if I connect my 5V wall adapter at a later time?

  • awallaz

    This was my favorite KipKay Kit so far. Challenging and very rewarding. Thanks guys!

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      agreed. it took us quite a bit of time to build too!

  • sparkymccloud

    I just wanted to thank the team at KiplKayKits for there quick response to my requests and questions. I screwed up my breakout board and sent them a request for a new one and in less than a day they sent me a new one. Thank you again for what you do for your customers.

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      you’re welcome sparky!

      • sparkymccloud

        I have a quick question. If the arduino programs the 28 pin chip, can I remove the 28 pin chip in my 4 x 4 cube and put it into the arduino and program it with the 4×4 arduino program and put it back into the 4×4 that I built from a couple of months ago?

  • Guest

    Well, yesterday I took the plunge… Having never soldered anything remotely like this I decided to set up, with radio and take the plunge.. After 1.5 hours I was at this point. One little issue (I had soldered the 330 ohms resistance badly, the chip was giving me +5V, 0 but the LED was not blinking). Debugging this is like debugging code fun 🙂 Now on to the FTDI board later this week

    • Etienne Moreau

      Sorry :S Please delete this post as it is the same as the one I posted as myself

  • Etienne Moreau

    Well, yesterday I took the plunge… Having never soldered anything remotely like this I decided to set up, with radio and take the plunge.. After 1.5 hours I was at this point. One little issue (I had soldered the 330 ohms resistance badly, the chip was giving me +5V, 0 but the LED was not blinking). Debugging this is like debugging code fun 🙂 Now on to the FTDI board later this week. I wonder if I could use both kipduino I have right now and the lasers from this month to actually carry data over laser… Hm….

  • Joshua Post

    Success! After nearly 9 hours of work, I have it communicating and blinking at different rates. At the checkpoint that involves the Arduino software, I tried to upload the new code and got an error that indicated it could not communicate with the Arduino although I was seeing COM3 appearing as it was plugged in. Finally realized that I had only connected the FTDI and not from there to the main chip yet. Finished those connection and tried again with the same issues.

    Went back to checking each wire for continuity and while testing Pin 1, 2, and 3 on the FTDI chip, I noticed that Pin 2 was not consistent. If I pushed down on the pin it would connect but light pressure would not. I was hesitant to mess with it as I wasted almost 4 hours on that chip alone, but needed this to work so put the smallest amount of solder I could on my iron and tried to touch only that pin. It looked like a bridge, but tested to finally be connected without any new bridges.

    Connected it back to the computer and it worked! I still have 8 more wires to the headers to complete but it is coming together!

    • Bryan

      Nice Job! Glad you got it.

  • Etienne Moreau

    Well I finished the board.. Only one soldering error (I grounded the Cristal while connecting the digital lines). Now I’m playing with a test board to ensure all connection are good (digital in out and analog also). Thanks for the great kit.

    • Bryan

      Nice test stand.

      • Etienne Moreau

        It is what it is… Since I needed a pc I had to move it to the home office… Had to make room so I just shoved all the work stuff aside.

        • Bryan

          It reminds me of mine. ha ha.

  • Joshua Cox

    I well try to etch a bored for a cleaner look

  • hector

    I have finally finished my kip duino!

  • Gadgetron

    so I got to the 3rd checkpoint and it has only one problem. When I plug it into the computer I get this message “usb device not recognized, one of the usb devices has malfunctioned and windows does not recognize it.” in addition the FTDI chip gets really hot.

    • Bryan

      I would suspect a short on the pins as well.

  • David Daniel Harley

    my diy arduino wont work it past all the check points but it wont work work it keeps saying
    avedude: stk500_getsync() : not in sync: resp=0x30 when i try to up load any thing. dose any one know why ????

    • Bryan

      Make sure you have the TX and RX pins soldered correctly from the FTDI chip to the Arduino. It sounds like your PC can see the FTDI but there is a issue communicating to the arduino chip.

    • Joshua Post

      I originally had this problem as well, because I tried to upload before I connected the TX and RX pins, as Bryan pointed out.
      I had the same problem even after I did connect the pins, so I started double checking the FTDI soldering and found out that I had a bad solder joint on pin 2 of the FTDI SMD, but all others checked out. After repairing that, it started connecting.

  • Frank

    Nice project mr Kip

  • Nathan

    Just so you know on the materials list it says 22pF capacitor but in the actual build and in our packing lists it says 22nF.

  • Rich64

    I had to cancel my subscription due to my amateur radio hobby keeps me busy in the summer months plus I had a visit to the hospital for a week. Will resume in the winter.

    Another thing, Lavoz24 made a lot of sense with his/her comments. I have been building the kits since the speakers and now working on the Arduino and this kit has really slowed me down. I started out finishing a kit in a few hours, now its been a week and at the first checkpoint and no power supply until I find an old cell phone charger or make a bench charger.(A possible kit idea?)
    On the arduino kit my board does not seem to be the same high quality as the other boards you have supplied. Some places won’t take solder. But I have worked around that problem.
    I was wondering if it would be easier to put the components on the board before the jumper wires? That would keep them out of the way for soldering. And work from the smaller components to the larger ones?
    I started my electronics education 6 months ago building my first ham radio kit, the Tuna Tin 2 for the 40 meter band. Sooner or later I will have all my radios built by me.
    For all Super Fans, if you need additional help, try electronics101.com for clear explanations. That’s where I get most of my education from.
    Team, Great job all the way around.

  • Rich64

    Forgot to mention that I am 66 yrs old and disabled. If I can help anyone, I will do my best. I thought of another idea that could be added to this kit for beginner, add a power plug, a male usb and a 16″ piece of some kind of 18g wire to get power from a computer.

  • Rich64

    Download HD version does not work only saves link to site.

  • Rich64

    Got the blinking lights twice but guess my SMD skills need a lot of work.

  • Rich64

    Well, just ran into a little problem. Cancelled my account and can’t view the videos of kits I purchased. Is there another source for them?

    • Joshua Post

      There is a cheaper subscription that allows you access to the videos only. That is the thing about a subscription, once you stop paying, you lose access, and don’t actually own anything, like printed directions.

  • Rich64

    Need to know what gauge wire is used in this kit. Ran out of black and had to use blue. Lost three blacks trying to strip the wire, because insulation came off the wrong end.

  • Rich64

    I know everyone has their own way of doing kits, but wouldn’t it be easier to populate the board going from small to large? The resisters and capacitors were a little bit tight Just a thought.

  • Rich64

    Idea! How about a door chime? Or maybe a LED name tag?

    • Donald C

      I think these are cool ideas. Only thing I would suggest is to post them in the ideas section, might get more of a response. Although with the most recent kit (August), this section might get some more viewers.

      • Rich64

        Done. Thx Donald C

  • Jaren Peterson

    I know I’m late to the party, but I got my kit a couple weeks ago and
    just finished my kipduino. I’ve never done anything like this before.
    When I plugged it in to my mac running OSX mavericks the IDE detected
    the device but I got this error when I tried to upload:
    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding

    I looked around online and someone suggested holding the reset button for
    3 or 4 seconds after compilation has begun. This actually did allow the
    upload to succeed, but seemed like a lame final solution.

    After more searching I found this:
    http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.0

    I followed these instructions and replaced the apple FTDI drivers with the standard ones and now everything is working great.
    Hopefully this info will help anyone else running OSX Mavericks.

    I’m waiting on a few pieces and I’ll connect this thing to the 5×5 cube next!

    Thanks to Kip and team!

  • Donald C

    Had this kit for about 2 weeks now, finally managed to work up the courage to attempt SMD soldering for the first time. With my Multimeter it seems like it is good, need to make the rest of the kit now to be sure. 😀

  • Jaren Peterson

    Has anyone looked at what it would take to make the Kipduino directly compatible with the standard shield layouts? It appears to me that it would just be a matter of adusting the placement of things so that the female headers are placed appropriately. As well as adding some extra headers to expose IORef, Reset, 3.3V, 5V, Gnd, Vin, ARef etc.

  • Anthony Bailey

    I checked the FTDI continuity with the pins and all were fine. Everything thing before the last step, connecting the headers, has been resoldered and checked many times but every time I plug this into my computer “Unknown Device” keeps showing up. The data connections are fine.

    • Rich64

      Having same problem here. Using win 7.

    • Joshua Post

      Does it happen to be a laptop you are using? I have noticed that if I plug it into a USB port that has a power icon along with it, it works fine, but if I plug it into another port without this icon, it sometimes shows up as an unknown device. I’m thinking it is related to the power being drawn.

  • Joshua Post

    I think I’m running into a design issue with the LED cube with the Guru kit. I’ve gotten it to do basic patterns just fine, but when I am trying to cycle through all of the decoder pins very fast to make it look like the entire cube is lit up, or even more complex designs like only the perimeter LEDs, I get erratic behavior when all 5 layers are enabled and have at least 1 LED active on each layer. If I only enable 3 layers, it is stable and works as expected. By putting some serial writes in various places, it appears that the entire chip is rebooting.

    I’m no Arduino or even electronics expert, but I’m guessing that too much power is being drawn from the Arduino since all the layers are coming directly from the Arduino pins. If there were 5 more transistors, I think the power for the layers could come from the positive rail rather than from the Arduino pins, and would not cause the Arduino to reboot.

    Any particular reason it was not designed this way?

  • Hakeeq Javid Shaikh

    is it atmega328pu or atmega328p-pu ???? pls help

    • Stephanie Ann Rosales

      It is atmega328p-pu!

      • Hakeeq Javid Shaikh

        what if i use atmega328pu …….. because i have already brought that ic

  • Hakeeq Javid Shaikh

    is it atmega 328pu or atmega328p-pu

  • Hakeeq Javid Shaikh

    while i was surfing the internet , i just went through sum products like atmega328p-pu and atmega328p-pu with arduino bootloader preloaded….. ?? which one shud i buy ??? shud the ic i bring shud be preloaded with the arduino bootloader ???

    • When you buy the kip-duino from our site we actually pre-load the arduino bootloader before sending them off in the kits. To burn the bootloader on the IC you’ll already need a working arduino (which defeats the purpose if you’re trying to make one yourself), so you should buy the preloaded if you don’t already have a working arduino that can burn it for you.

      • Hakeeq Javid Shaikh

        in india it is cheap to make the arduino…….. here original arduino boards are really costly……. therefore i thought make them myself………. but after knowing that an arduino is needed to bootload the atmega chip, it has created a new problem for me……… is there any other solution??

        • There are ATmega8 chips that are bootloaded when you buy them, you just gotta make sure from the seller that they are indeed pre-bootloaded!

  • Joshua Post

    It appears that the FTDI chip used this in project are not genuine but a 3rd party knockoff. After recent Windows update in the last month, the official drivers will no longer work without intervention. A user on the Arduino forums created a video to walk you through manually selecting the drivers

    This is from this thread: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?PHPSESSID=inbcip6sep5dgpvqp6kv31t7s0&topic=270175.30

    If your Kipduino suddenly does not appear with a COM port in Windows and there is a device without driver named “FT232R USB UART” then follow the directions from this video and you’ll be back in business.

    • Lavoz24

      Hey Josh,
      I don’t know if you’ve read, they are going to repair the issue. So the chips will be able to update to the latest software version. I don’t know when or if this has happened but according to them, it will.
      Thanks for letting us know. I certain someone, somewhere will run into an issue and get massive headaches not knowing what’s wrong. If it hasn’t happened already,lol.

      • Bryan

        What a disaster this is/was. FTDI chips being in practically everything and counterfeits being nearly impossible to detect from the outside.

  • Joshua Post

    I’ve made significant progress with my Kipduino and LED Cube!
    http://youtu.be/jxmDTSmfu2w

  • Hakeeq Javid Shaikh

    does those pin on arduino are as same as those pins on atmega328p-pu???? should i make direct conections to atmega chip and name as they are named in arduino(in my kipduino) ???……. just as shown in the image below

    • Yup they are the same, so the chip on the arduino is actually facing the other direction on the board, but then you can see that A5 is next to pin 28 which is like what the mapping says. Make sure to follow the mapping and you’ll be good to go!

      • Hakeeq Javid Shaikh

        thanks a lot !

  • Hakeeq Javid Shaikh

    how much volt should be applied through the barrel jack ??? … 🙂

  • Hakeeq Javid Shaikh

    how much voltage shud be applied through the barrel jack ???

    • Joshua Post

      5v and 500ma – 1000ma

  • Skyler

    So just to make sure that I understand this, you plug in your atmega into this and then program it, then you can unplug it and put it to your project?

    • Bryan

      You can do that, yes. The board is basically a DIY version of the Arduino Duemilanove/Uno. Basically anything you can do with those boards you can do with this one.

      • Skyler

        Oh. That is so cool. Thank you.

  • Brandon Fa

    Is anyone else who ordered on or after October 27th received their chips not programmed because both my clock and kipduino have their chips not pre programmed

    • Bryan

      I have not had this issue. Do you get a blank flash dump (the .hex file) from the programmer? Does it have the bootloader?

      • Brandon Fa

        No it just does not work. I do not have a programmer

        • Bryan

          Ok, I would venture to guess that it actually is programmed and the fault is somewhere else. That is the most common situation. Does the circuit do anything at all? Does anything get hot?

          • Brandon Fa

            The circuit does not get hot but, now the led does turn on but it does not blink when I press the reset button it turns on and stays on. I checked all my solder connections and none of them are short. Please help.

  • Diego Rao

    what sort of memory does this have?

  • Diego Rao

    help meeeee!!!!! please!!!!!. i skipped the first checkpoint because i dont have a barrel jack that runs at 5v, and now the soldering gods have cursed me!! when i plug in the usb to my computer, the led doesn’t blink, but my MacBook Pro shuts down!!! Help!!!

    • Bryan

      You have a solder bridge or other short condition on your power rails. You computer is shutting down to protect itself from the short. Check your power lines very carefully, a multimeter in continuity mode would be very helpful for this.

      • Diego Rao

        so there’s a short between the rails?

        • Bryan

          Most likely, and by “rails” I also mean any of the wires connected to them. The power connection on the chip is a common place for a short.

          • Diego Rao

            thanks man! i found and fixed the short.

          • Bryan

            Glad you found it.

  • etnguyen03

    Hello,nnI have built a Kipduino without the DC & switch, and I went straight to checkpoint 2. When I plugged my Kipduino in, the atmega got very hot and I immediately disconnected the USB. The atmega looks aesthetically fine, however it does not turn on after I re-plugged it in. Any ideas? Thanks!nnFiles: http://go.eurlshortner.tk/yUZVyx

    • Bryan

      It could be OK still. Just double check your wiring. You may have created a short in the chip by connecting the pins incorrectly. Once I connected the chip backwards and that caused me to connect power to ground resulting in a short within the chip which got hot fast. I corrected the wiring and everything worked fine.

      • etnguyen03

        I have checked all the contacts according to the assembly instructions and checked with a multimeter on continuity. They turned out all non-shortened except for the ones that were purposely connected. I have no idea what to do now, except ask to see if they’ll send me another atmega, or something.

      • etnguyen03

        I actually received a replacement atmega328, and (before I plugged it in) checked all the connections, replaced the chip and plugged it in. When I did, nothing lighted up and there were no temperature problems. Any ideas? Thanks!

        • Bryan

          For me, 99.99% of the time the problem is with my connections or mis-wired parts. I would say try making things work systematically, following the schematic (not the step by step instructions). Start with one segment on the display and see if you can get it to light up then work your way around until you get everything going.

        • Bryan

          Post a clear picture front an back if you can.

  • Dan Aaronson

    Will This Arduino run on a 9V battery with the barrel jack?

    • Bryan

      Short answer is no. There is no voltage regulator on board so you should run it at 5 volts. You might be ok at 6 volts (I think I remember the datasheet calling that the absolute maximum for the ATMEGA328) but I would not go past 5.5volts to be safe.

      • Yup what Bryan said!

        • israel

          is their a way to one on one chat or is this just a Q&A strictly

  • Brandon Fa

    My FTDI board started to smoke after i installed the driver on my windows 8.1 machine. The first two times i plugged it in windows would not recognize it but the 2 leds beside ftdi were solid so i know that this was not a short.

    • Joshua Post

      The LEDs should not be solid at all. They LEDs next to the FTDI chip should be off unless you are communicating with the chip and then they should be rapidly flashing as data is being passed. Time to check for more shorts, although if you let the smoke out of the chip, it may already be damaged. The smoke should stay inside! 🙂

  • Dan Aaronson

    I’ve made it to checkpoint 3 and it isn’t working. I’ve checked every connection from the beginning to now and still nothing. I have a feeling its the FT232RL chip, the lights wont blink and my computer doesn’t even know its there. I’m wondering if exposure to the soldering iron (when I did the surface mound soldering) could have damaged it. what should I do?

    • Joshua Post

      Have you tested continuity from each actual pin of the FTDI chip to the bottom of the board, to ensure that soldering between the SMD area and the riser pins are correct?
      In Device Manager, do you get any Unknown Devices?

  • Dan Aaronson

    I’ve made it to checkpoint 3 and it isn’t working. I plug it into my computer and the one little light flashes, but the other two (that are supposed to quickly flash) will not. I have checked every single connection on my board and its all good. I think it might be the €FT232RL chip not working. What should I do?

    • Bryan

      That FT232RL is very difficult to solder down. Try putting some pressure on it and see if it activates (sometimes the pins are not soldered completely). Otherwise, check with support and see if they can help.

    • Joshua Post

      Look in Device Manager after you plug it in and see if you have a COM port showing up, or if there is an unknown device. If there is an unknown device, look for an earlier post of mine regarding FTDI drivers and manually assigning them.

  • Diego Rao

    does anyone know if i could get a replacement FTDI chip and board at like a radioshack or something? i think i lifted one of the pads and i’m not sure i can fix it…

    • Lavoz24

      Hey Diego,
      One of the pads? Do,you mean what you soldered? If so, you could use the solder braid to remove the solder from that side of the chip and resolder.
      In any case, If you send an email to support they will help you out.

    • Bryan

      It is also possible to “green wire” (https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/99) the lifted pad. It is very tedious with that 0.65 pin pitch, but possible and perhaps worth a shot.

  • Austin

    i need help with check point 1 the light comes on but wont flash and the chip gets realy realy hot and the reset butten dont work Help please .

  • Dan Aaronson

    What device should I set my Arduino programmer when programming this?

    • Matthew Goffard

      There’s instructions on this page that helps with that http://kipkaykits.com/programming-the-diy-arduino/

      My question is the step after that…every time i try to send something over i get a “avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00” error. What would Cause this?

      • Joshua Post

        I had this originally as well. It means that that Arduino IDE can’t talk to the chip. Do you have a COM port showing up and selected in the Arduino IDE? Are you all of the way done with the checkpoints, or are you still working through it. I know it has you plug in your board when you are done soldering the FTDI chip, but before you actually wire it to the ATMEGA chip, so you can’t upload at that point, you have to keep following the directions to completion.

        • Matthew Goffard

          Its set up as com 4 on my computer. I put the 3 jumpers between the 2 chips already but haven’t wired up the headers yet, I was going to try making the light blink slower as an initial test

          • Joshua Post

            Did you change the Arduino software to an Arduino Uno board? Do you have the Beginner or Hobbyist kit? There are some additional files for the Beginner version that you need to install.
            I would also check the soldering on your FTDI chip again. Use a multimeter to do a continuity check between the pins of the actual chip and your jumper wire to the ATMEGA to ensure it is good all the way through. I did a poor job on my first several soldering attempts and had some missed connections.

          • Matthew Goffard

            just tried a different computer after testing all the circuits and coming up empty…after trying my old laptop (win7) things worked fine…apparently audreno’s and win8.1 do not get along.

            edit-the kit i have is the one that came with the 5×5 led cube kit (https://kipkaykits.com/product/5x5x5-arduino-based-led-cube/) so technicly the hobbyist since i have the 328p in it. i havent got the cube stuff all hooked up yet (i’m building it–if i can fit everything without blocking too much–as a single pcb, no headers, just direct wiring to the cube’s circuits.) once Its up and running i may try your code on it since that looks cool with all the patterns and what not that it can do but in the end i thought that it would be a cool music graphic, i haven’t figured out how ill do that part yet completely but i have a few rough ideas laid out

          • Joshua Post

            I programmed mine on two different Windows 8.1 computers, so I know it can work. There was a post about FTDI changing drivers that were causing some problems that may be the issue if it was appearing as an Unknown Device in Device Manager: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?PHPSESSID=inbcip6sep5dgpvqp6kv31t7s0&topic=270175.30

            If you plan on using my code, make sure to read the header of the code for information about the order that I wired the columns in order for the patterns to work without modification, or plan on making adjustments.

            Good luck!

          • Matthew Goffard

            Finally getting around to wiring… Just tacked in the decoders to realize I think I have the wrong parts, my question is what are these and will they work? My problem is they are 20 lead not 16 lead ic’s (and considering where I work I should have checked before starting… Since your supposed to check everything before installing, a step I seem to have neglected here…)

          • Joshua Post

            That is certainly not the part I got. They appear to be electronic volume controllers.
            http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/PrincetonTechnologyCorporation/mXuvtvz.pdf

            I got M74HC238B1 chips. The main concern with your plan to do the entire circuit on the one board is that you may be tight on room for 25 transistors, but if you line them up directly above your decoders once you get the right ones, there may be room, just varying length of wire.

          • Joshua Post

            Did you get resolution in your part descrepancy?

          • Matthew Goffard

            definitely the wrong part…waiting for the correct ones to show up…pesky slow shipping/holidays

      • Dan Aaronson

        Thanks, I wasn’t able to get to the site before because I had to purchase something to unlock it. Is the Arduino on the right Com port? Also try switching Data + and -. It worked with me once.

  • Dante Siracusa

    I have finished all the soldering and for some unknown reason the led is off when the chip is in. The chip is in the right place as is the holder. IDK what to do.

  • Skyler

    so I made it to checkpoint 1. The LED wont turn on and I have checked all my solder connections many times. Can I use my multimeter to check my 5v barrel jack or is that not smart?

    • Joshua Post

      That is what it is designed for. Set it for DCV and the 20 setting. Connect the red probe to the positive lead coming from the barrel jack and the black to the negative lead. Make sure you are getting around 5V showing on your multimeter. It may be a little higher or lower, but should be around 4.5 – 5.75

  • Skyler

    So I used my multimeter to check what was wrong because at checkpoint 1, the light didnt turn on. I checked every connection and then when I touched both the power rail and the capacitor closest to the ATmega holder, the light turned on. It also didnt flash or anything like that. It was the leg that is connected to the holder, not ground. Can somebody help? I can post a Pic if you need it.

    • Joshua Post

      Please post a picture. Are you sure that after turning over the board you weren’t actually connecting the power to the LED?

      • Skyler

        I have checked many times and have not found any solder bridges

        • Skyler

          That should’ve posted a picture^^ but I can’t tell

  • Skyler

    Here’s a picture since it wouldn’t post in my comment

    • Joshua Post

      Can you post the other side as well?

  • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

    Pictures are always the best way to troubleshoot

  • Skyler

    Here’s the other picture. Sorry for the spam of here, I’m newer to this stuff. Thank you for all your help as well

    • Joshua Post

      I’ve not had a chance to rotate the pictures around to try to overlay them and help me get an understanding of where you are, but try putting your Multimeter in DCV mode and connect the positive lead to pin 19 of the Arduino and the black lead to the ground rail. See if you get any reading. If so, then the chip is sending power to the LED and it is just a problem with the LED itself, maybe backwards or a bad connection, or maybe wrong resistor.

      • Guest

        ok thank you. i just had the switch there but i have tried it both ways. With those tests, it should be 5v, right?

        • Joshua Post

          Correct, it should be around 5v. It may vary a little but something like 4.8 – 5.25 probably.

      • Skyler

        ok so when I tested pin 19 to ground, I didn’t get any reading. When I did pin 7, I didn’t really know where I should put the leads so I did both power and ground. When I connected it to power, it was 5v. When it was to ground, there wasn’t any reading

        • Joshua Post

          That is good. That means you have 5v going to pin 7 as it should, from the red wire you connected. Pin 19 not having anything means that it isn’t trying to light up the LED so there is something preventing that.

          I would try using your multimeter is continuity mode and checking every wire you have connected. If you think you have it connected from Pin 7 to the power rail, then put the red probe on pin 7 and the black probe on the power rail and see if the multimeter shows something other than 1 or infinity, indicating that they are electrically connected. Repeat with every wire and solder joint you have connected. I would test from the power/ground rail all the way to the actual pin of the Arduino and not only the wire you soldered, so you are for sure testing all the way to the chip.

          If you find something that appears to be connected but the number doesn’t change, then it isn’t really connected.

          I would then check every remaining pin on the Arduino as well, but if you haven’t soldered anything you should continue to get just 1 or infinity. if you get other numbers, then you are getting a short/bridge from somewhere. You’ll have to test each pin twice, once to the ground and once to power rail.

          See what that shows.

        • Joshua Post

          Any luck with further testing?

          • Skyler

            Kind of. I tried every connection. Is it possible that it’s a bad capacitor

          • Joshua Post

            I suppose it is possible though I don’t know what it would act like or what to test it with. I believe I saw others having trouble with the capacitors and again I’m not sure how to test them. I guess put your leads in DCV mode on the pins of the atmega where the capacitor connects and see if anything is running through it. Also try continuity tests on each leg of the capacitor and see.

            If you happened to have another Arduino around you could put your chip into it to see if it works, but I’m guessing you don’t.

          • Skyler

            No I don’t have an arduino sadly, haha. But the only reason I ask about the capacitor is because when I have my multimeter in DCV mode and touch the power rail to one of the capacitor, then the light turns on. Yet it still doesn’t blink

          • Joshua Post

            What if you touch the other capacitor? Or the other side of the same capacitor? Same thing? Trying to narrow down if you are bypassing only the capacitor or the oscilator

          • Skyler

            On the other capacitor, it is about 5V on the side closest to ground. On the other side, it is about 4v. On the capacitor with troubles, the other side gives me about 3V

          • Joshua Post

            I’m not able to test the same in mine easily, but I would assume the difference is due to the capacitor using some or oscillating and it appears to be lower voltage as designed.

            What markings are on the capacitors? Want to make sure you received the correct part.

          • Skyler

            The one further away from the ATmega(the one that seems to be working right) says 223 and the other one(the not working one) says 22

          • Joshua Post

            I’m pretty sure they are both supposed to be the same. Jimmy?

          • Joshua Post

            I confirmed on mine both say 22. I have an email off to jimmy to check out this thread.

          • Skyler

            Oh ok. Thank you for everything

          • Joshua Post
          • Skyler

            Ya I did. They don’t have any at the moment so they ordered some new ones and so I will get them as soon as possible.

          • Skyler

            I got the capacitor yesterday and it works amazing now!:D

          • Joshua Post

            Yay!

          • Bryan

            Both caps should be the same because the xtal needs to be balanced in order for the chip to oscillate and produce a clock signal. The chip needs to have a clock in order to execute the code to make the light turn on. The reason that the light might be turning on when you bridge the cap leads is because you could be providing a clock signal through the meter and bypassing the cap. Your meter also has some capacitance which might be balancing out the other side at 22nf (223). The 22pf (22) caps are the ones I have as well.

          • Skyler

            Oh ok! That makes sense. Thank you! So would a 22nf or 22pf work better?

          • Joshua Post

            Since the kit comes with 22pf, that is what I would go with.

            On the materials page it says the capacitors are recommended but makes it sound like it may be optional. You could try removing them both for now and connect without them and see if you get further.

          • Skyler

            Ok thank you for both of your guys’ help

          • Bryan

            The 22pf, the ones marked (22) seem to work the best in most situations. It is what I always use.

            There is a formula for calculating the optimal loading caps but usually is not needed to get things up and running. The caps are somewhat optional but without them the clock is very unstable.

          • Skyler

            Also, while I was testing everything, I found out that even if I have the soon to be arduino plugged in and have my multimeter on DCV and if I touch one lead to one side of the capacitor and the other lead to the other side, then the LED lights up

          • Joshua Post
    • Joshua Post

      So I took a closer look at your pictures and everything looks good as far as I can tell. The only thing that looks out of place is that on your final picture of the top of the board, the power switch is slid to the down position away from the DC jack. Make sure to move that up towards the jack to have it supplying power through the jack and not through the future USB connection.

      Aside from that, check with a multimeter to ensure that power is getting to Pin 7 of the main chip, and test the LED circuit as I mentioned in my earlier post to make sure that it isn’t installed backwards or malfunctioning.

  • Jen Tran

    I tried the Surface Mount Soldering but it didn’t work out too well the first time, and now the parts are no good. =(

    Could I get a replacement FTDI & SSOP4 Board please? Could I also get a programmed ATmega328P Microcontroller? I ordered the 5×5 LED Cube with Kipduino but got the 16 version instead.

    If the parts will be arriving before Jan 11th, could you send it to my billing address? (otherwise, if you could send it to my normal shipping address that would be great). OR, I’ll be passing by LA, and wouldn’t mind picking components up!

    Thanks so much for all you guys are doing! I feel like my soldering skills have leveled up quite a bit since starting the project this weekend.

  • hector

    hi what are the pin outs on the duino?

    • Joshua Post

      Depends on how you wire it up, but if you are building it like the directions show, then on the left side, top to bottom is D0, D1, etc. Then next to it are the Analog ports, going up from the bottom, A0, A1, A2, etc

      Is that what you were asking?

      • hector

        Yes thank you and the power?

        • Joshua Post

          This project will be 5v only. That is one difference between the kipduino and a full fledge Arduino, a full one has a voltage regulator so it can take up to 12v and it will regulate it to the 5v it needs. The full one also has a separate pin for 5v power and ground for other components. You could add something like this to your own kipduino if you get to that point.

  • Heath Whibley

    kikay i’m trying to build your kipduino and in your schematic you use 2 o.1uF capacitors for the crystal oscillator. is this an error? should it be 2 22pF capacitors? anyway sorry I’m not supporting you but all my parts are coming from ebay.

    • Joshua Post

      For the oscillator it should be 2x 22pF

  • hector

    I also have another question I wanted to throw out there. I am currently building a small factor 3d printer and was wondering if any one knew a good place to get old internal CD DVD drives.

    • Joshua Post

      I don’t know if they let you do this, but often communities have electronic recycling events and maybe you could pick through that? Maybe check Goodwill or another thrift store? Check with local businesses and schools looking to throw out old parts?

      • hector

        Ok thanks.

  • Harrison Corey

    hey what wire AWG does he use?

    • Joshua Post

      I use 22, but 26 I believe is what the kits used to come with.

  • Sammy

    I’m at the stage to test my arduino, after I mounted the FTDI in. After soldering the FTDI on its board, I tested al the pinouts with my multimeter, and everything was fine. But from the moment I pluged it in my computer, the chip started to heat up. I immediatly pulled it out. I checked all my connections, but they look all good. However, if I check my chip again, my multimeter tels that I have a short from pin 17 untill 22.
    Is this because of my connections or because my chip is damaged?

    • Joshua Post

      Just to be clear, the short is on the FTDI chip or the ATMega chip?
      I’m not really sure off the top of my head what this would indicate

  • Dan McKnight

    I am at the first check point and have a blinking led, Yay! I have noticed though that it blinks about twice as fast as the one in the video and when the rest is pressed there is no quick blink. The steady blink does stop and resumes when the button is released. Am I on the right track? I haven’t found this kind of scenario in the other comments and don’t know if I need to figure this out before going on or am I good? I am impressed with the community of moderators, and team members Kip Kay has and am enjoying the kits. Thanks for all your hard work.

    • Joshua Post

      I don’t recall if mine was any faster or not, but the only thing that should impact it would be the oscillator and capacitors you soldered on. Double check those to make sure they are all connected correctly. I would go ahead and move on from there. Since the blinking stops while pressing reset it appears to be functioning to some level.

  • Dly736

    the schematic says pin 16 of the ftdi goes to positive data and pin 15 goes to negative data, however in the instructions it says that pin 16 goes to negative data and pin 15 goes to positive data. Which one is correct?

    Also I have gotten up to the checkpoint where you get the arduino program to ‘see’ the ftdi chip. My arduino programme did not see it when I went to serial port. I’ve already checked the surface mount soldering and checked everything else ,but could not find a problem.

    • David Fries

      I didn’t build this kit, but the general advice is to look for more trusted schematics when it is commercial chips. In this case if you look down in the resources the FT232RL Docs in section 3.1 and 3.2 list 15 plus, 16 minus, which matches the cartoon drawn FT232RL pinouts, and step 7 instructions. That leaves the USB side, which a Google image search shows the pin locations are correct in the overall schematic diagram, concluding that the full diagram must have the wires crossed. Which way did you connect it?

      • Dly736

        yes, i connected the wires with them crossing (like you said). However, at the third checkpoint, i plugged in the usb to my computer to get the arduino program to ‘see’ the ftdi chip. i went to serial port and saw nothing.

        • David Fries

          What operating system are you using?

          • Dly736

            I’m using a Mac, so Apple OS X
            It doesn’t come up with the TTY.a-string-of-text like it says at the checkpoint for mac

          • David Fries

            I’m on Linux, the way to look at kernel messages is the program dmesg, and for USB there will be a message when a device is found, or some times an error about the device not taking the assigned address. If there are no messages that means the computer isn’t seeing the device at all that there’s a problem with the hardware, you don’t have to wonder about device drivers or software until it sees the device.

            usb 9-5: new full-speed USB device number 4 using ohci-pci

            usbcore: registered new interface driver cdc_acm

            Sounds like OS X has (or had) this command line program, I would look there or you can search for a different way to give kernel or system logs.

          • I am primarily on a Mac too and got stumped on that step because I didn’t see anything I was supposed to see either. I couldn’t find a mistake in my wiring. It seems the FTDI driver update debacle messed up a lot of things and I’m not sure we’ll get it to run on our Macs straight-up. I was able to manually load the drivers on my Mac that is running Windows 7 in the free VirtualBox emulator and wrote up a tutorial on how you can install the drivers: http://www.johnfixesstuff.com/2015/06/how-to-install-arduino-usb-drivers-in-windows-7.html

        • Joshua Post

          Assuming you are using Windows, does the computer make any sound when you plug it any? Any lights on the board you built? Check Windows Device Manager for any items with a yellow exclamation point or triangle. At one time some drivers were throwing fits and while the computer detected it, it didn’t show a com port until the driver issue was resolved.

          • Joshua Post

            Oops. Ignore me. I replied to an email notification without reading the whole thread.

            Double check all of your power and ground connections to the chip. I would use your multimeter with one probe on the ground rail and the other directly on top of the chip for pins that should be connected to ground and the same for the power rail pins.

            This way you are testing directly from end to end and will expose any SMD soldering or pin header soldering issues.

          • Dly736

            I’ve already checked everything and cannot find a problem.

          • Joshua Post

            Thank you for the pictures. (Also, your SMD soldering looks great!)

            Looking at the back of the board, you have a yellow wire going from the USB cable up to a pin on the breakout for FTDI, but it appears it is also connected to a black ground wire. Looking at the pictures of the project, I don’t see the ground wire in the photos. I haven’t stepped through the entire project again, so maybe I’m missing something, but check that again.
            Also, the blue wire on the breakout doesn’t appear to have as good of a solder joint as the others, so double check that as well.

          • Dly736

            Yes, I double checked the blue wire. I know it’s a bit hard to see from the picture, but the yellow wire is not connected to the black ground wire (i double checked with my multimeter). The ground wire is connected to the capacitor which is connected to ground

          • David Fries

            Without USB power connected, check for shorts between FTDI pin 15, 16, ground, and power. Especially between pin 16 (yellow wire), and the black wire right next to it. The instructions has the capacitor up a set of pins which has a convenient ground.

          • David Fries

            Just to clarify the capacitor being down a set of holes isn’t necessarily a problem, in the configuration you have with the ground wire running down to it, but if the yellow data wire is connected to the capacitor or ground that is a problem, which looks like the case.

          • Dly736

            oops! my bad, i didn’t realise that the capacitor was in the wrong holes. However, I know it’s a bit hard to see from the picture, but i checked with my multimeter for any shorts between the yellow wire and the capacitor connected to ground. I also checked shorts between pin 15, 16, ground and power. I found nothing that was wrong.

  • Dannie

    OK, does the FTDI surface mount componant come prefab with the kit? The attached pic shows what i received.

  • Frank Daniel

    I plugged in my Kipduino after a long time (had it for over a year) and suddenly it seems to not be working. When I plug it in, my computer says my USB device has malfunctioned. The device manager (Windows 8) says that an “other device” named “FT232R USB UART” doesn’t have drivers installed. I’ve used the Kipduino several times before (up until about a month ago if memory serves) with no problem. I had an Arduino Uno before the Kipduino (truth be told, I like the Kipduino better since I can remove the ATMega chip and make something a standalone circuit) and that works just fine.

    The only thing I can think is different is I updated the Arduino software since the last time it worked. Are there any known issues with the new software and the Kipduino? Is there a recommended course of action to troubleshoot?

    • Joshua Post

      Take another look at the directions. I believe there is still a reference to a YouTube video about how to manually force the drivers. I ran into the same thing several months ago.

      • Frank Daniel

        Tried that, and I managed to install the Arduino Uno, but now it says “The device cannot start (Code 10). A device which does not exist was specified.”

        • Joshua Post

          That sounds like maybe the wrong driver was selected when you manually picked them.
          You could also try downloading a older version of the drivers, such as 2.08.30
          http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm

    • FTDI altered their drivers in an effort to try to combat non-branded FTDI chips and it’s messed a lot of stuff up. I was able to fix mine on a Windows 7 machine and wrote up the steps on how to manually install the drivers to get around this. You can try this on an 8 machine: http://www.johnfixesstuff.com/2015/06/how-to-install-arduino-usb-drivers-in-windows-7.html

  • Kevin

    I cannot find the arduino code for the 5x5x5 cube that goes with this kit, am I missing something? Can someone please send me a link to use with the cube that come with the guru kit. I want to do that project soon, been sitting on it for awhile

    • David Fries

      Under RESOURCES/DOCS there is a link to a zip file with C source code in it for three different sizes of cubes. I didn’t get the LED Cube kit, but I expect that’s what the kits shipped with. The chips are also normally preprogrammed for the kit you received.

    • Joshua Post

      David is right on for the monthly kit that had options for 3x3x3, 4x4x4 or 5x5x5 kits, but for the Guru option on this Kipduino project, no code was included, and little directions. The code from the previous LED cube kit doesn’t apply to the Kipduino version of the 5x5x5, but if you check through these comments, you’ll see a post from me where I link to the code I wrote for this project, and in the comments are some additional tips on how I wired it up. I know at least other one member has used my code and directions and was able to successfully build his.

      • Joshua Post

        Here is a link to my video and in the description part of the page there is a link to my code: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxmDTSmfu2w

        • Kevin

          Thank you so much!!! I can’t wait to do this now. That is amazing work on the coding. I’ll keep you updated

        • Kevin

          Josh
          What size board did you build that cube on? my kit did not come with the PCB’s and Im not sure if I would have to buy a 12X18 CM board or a 15X20 CM board for this to fit on. I appreciate your help with this, I am very much looking forward to building this 5X5X5 cube now after watching your video many times

          • Joshua Post

            Hmm. I’m pretty sure a board came with mine when I ordered it when it was first released. I don’t have it directly in front of me but I’ll try to check it out soon.

          • Joshua Post

            I used a 12 cm X 18 cm board

          • Kevin

            Thank you. Ordering them right now

        • Kevin

          Finally finished my cube. Thank you so much josh for this awesome coding

          http://youtu.be/1f8n9E5zzy4

  • Niall Holligan

    i just finished making my kipduino and when i go to upload a program an error keeps appearing ” avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 ” iv tried every board in the arduino software and iv even tried using the older 1.0.6 version to see if that would help but to no success any help would be greatly appreciated

    • Joshua Post

      That means it isn’t communicating with your board. Does a Com port appear? There is a link in the project page for some workarounds for the device being Unknown in Windows that you may need to look at.
      Windows or Mac?

      • Niall Holligan

        yeah I’ve done the step on how to trick it into thinking it is a serial port in com 4. I am on a windows machine.

        • Joshua Post

          Are you building the beginner or hobbyist kit?

          • Niall Holligan

            im building the regular one that is shown in kevins picture if it is any help i got it off this website for around 40 euro and the boards are red

  • Ändrew Motz

    When I plug in Kipdunio Windows doesnt regonize it nor does the ardunio IDE. But if i swap the USB D+ and D- wires it regonizes it but cant upload it just says :

    Arduino: 1.6.6 (Windows 10), Board: “Arduino/Genuino Uno”

    avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xcf

    Problem uploading to board. See http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#upload for suggestions.

    This report would have more information with

    “Show verbose output during compilation”

    enabled in File > Preferences.

    I have the schematics mutliple times and my SMD soldering pin to pin. Checked drivers are all good. I am out of ideas anyone got any tips or ideas?

    Note: Running windows 10

  • Dylan

    After the following the video it shows up in device manager as USB serial Port (COM3) but when I select COM3 in the software i get the same error.

    • Joshua Post

      Did you replace the Boards file?

  • Kevin

    Does the driver issue effect Mac too? Everything I see looks like Windows but I can get mine to upload a sketch. All the check points work. I see the tty and the green and red led’s light up real quick when plugged in. And when unplugged the tty goes away. When it’s trying to upload a sketch the green led lights 3times real quick before failing.

    • Joshua Post

      Are you building the beginner or hobbyist version? If the beginner, there is a modified Boards file you’ll need to download and out into the Arduino directory to upload properly.

      • Kevin

        Hobbyist. Going to be used on that awesome cube you helped with

      • Kevin

        I guess Guru kit is actually more correct

    • Joshua Post

      I don’t have a Mac so I can’t say for sure but in Windows the Com port wouldn’t appear unless the driver issue was resolved. Since you see TTY appearing, I would suspect the driver is fine. You mentioned elsewhere that you thought the schematic had the data ports reversed. Again I would think that since you see the TTY entries that it isn’t the problem but somewhere to triple check.
      Can you post the exact error you get when uploading? What board type did you see the Arduino IDE to?

      • Kevin

        The data + & – on the schematic are backwards for the ftdi chip. But the instructions are ok.

        Picture of error attached

        • Joshua Post

          See if this allows you to upload anything: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=plCxXwiUK-w

          • Kevin

            Josh, you are the man!!! For some reason that worked. “Done uploading on the first try

            Thank you once again

          • Joshua Post

            Great. The ftdi chip is supposed to be resetting the Atmega when uploading but I saw several threads about your specific error and the ones I looked at were all Mac so might just be something with it and third party arduinos.

          • Kevin

            Josh, you are the man!!! For some reason that worked. “Done uploading on the first try

            Thank you once again

  • Kevin

    Finally all done the Kipduino and the 5X5X5. Thank you very much Josh for all your help and specially your coding. Would have been a boring cube with out that

  • Antonio Escalante

    Kipkay hello when you connect to usb yellow LED not shine much , you could do ?

  • David Galloway

    I am having trouble with my kipduino. Where it tells you to stop and check your work to this point. Where you plug in power and the LED is supposed to blink. Mine does blink but, not like it should at least I don’t think so. Here is what it does, please let me know if this is correct to this point. Here is a link to the youtube video I uploaded to show what is going on. Please help, I went over ever single connection and can not find anything I missed. I even checked every connect with my digital multi meter. Here is the link to the youtube video. Thanks. https://youtu.be/iW2hHUw5gxw

    • David Fries

      I looked at your video. Assuming the ATMega microcontroller shipped is set to use the crystals (and I expect it is), all the parts you have installed so far have to be functioning for the results you see in the video. I can understand your concern that the blink pattern is different in the video at that checkpoint. Unfortunately I haven’t built this kit, so I can’t say for sure what program is flashed when shipped. That it is blinking, and that it stops blinking when you hold the reset button makes me think it is just a different program running is the reason you have a different pattern.

      • David Galloway

        So in your opinion do you think it is safe to continue? I went over every connection at least three, four times and I can not find anything wrong. Even went as far as testing everything with my digital multimeter and just can find anything wrong. If you want, I can link some high resolution photos so you can see what I have done so far. Thanks David for your help.

        • Joshua Post

          What blinking pattern were you expecting it to do? I think what your video showed is normal.
          For kicks, look at the number printed on the orange capacitors and post that back. Originally there was a mixup and the wrong part was shipped that messed things up but I think you are fine.

          • David Galloway

            If you look at the instructions for kipduino part 1 there is a video in the instruction that tells you to stop and check your work to this point. That video shows a much different LED pattern then mine.

            The actual instructions say 22nf, but the parts list, list 22pf caps. The ones I got with kit have 22 printed on them, but when I test them on 2 different multimeters they come out to .033 nF out of circuit. So which should they be? Should they be 22 nF or 22pF? Also the tested .033 nF right or close enough? Both of them tested about the same. One tested .033 nF and the other tested .031 nF. If you want I can take some high res pix and link em so you can see what is going on so far. Thanks for your help.

          • David Fries

            The data sheet atmel-2486-8-bit-avr-microcontroller-atmega8_l_datasheet.pdf lists
            a recommended range of 12-22 pF, in table 4 of System Clock and Clock Options section. The optimal value depends on the wires and all components in the area, but you probably only need the optimal value for it to operate across all temperature and voltage ranges, along with any other environmental and other variations that can be thrown at it. Your multimeter shows it is in the right order of magnitude. They have 22 printed on them, so you should be good.

            Do you still have the capacitors removed from the circuit? Do a test with them removed and crystal not connected to the microcontroller, power it up and see what happens. I expect the LED to not blink and the reset to appear to do nothing. It’s also possible you’ll see the same blinking pattern, but I doubt it. These AVR microcontrollers can run with an internal resonator, I wouldn’t expect this kit to ship that way. It won’t hurt anything to run without the crystal, but if it is set to use the crystal it won’t run without it.

            Assuming it is set to use the crystal, for the LED to be blinking I think everything you have so far has to be working. It has to be getting power. The crystal has to be oscillating, that requires capacitors sufficiently close, the microcontroller has to be running the program, which it wouldn’t be without the crystal working, the microcontroller has to be setting the pin to output and setting it high and low. It’s also responding to reset, so that’s doing something. I think it is good to proceed.

            For the LED to be on, blink it has to get power.

          • David Galloway

            Here is a link to this kit so far.

            https://goo.gl/photos/97Z7Hy1sj9zFgy4y6

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