Laser Tripwire

Lasers Go PEW PEW!

Protect your goods. The handy, dandy laser tripwire will be your sidekick! Best of all, it’s DIY. After you build this, you can officially tell your friends and family that you’re a certified spy – then go to the office where they change names, and change your name. Just make sure your last name is Bond, or Fisher, or Snake.

Or if you’re like me and you have cats protecting your home already, just use the laser tripwire to re-enact scenes from those movies — butt-kicking, judo-moving, action-heroines (or heroes) in tights – jumping, hopping, and dodging those tripwires that protect the heavily guarded piece of something that costs a lot of money.

Either way, the laser tripwire will be really useful!

Have fun with the build!

Laser What?

When we started working on the Laser Tripwire, we tried out many schematics out there on the internet. All of them seemed to make the laser/photoresistor perform relatively well – as it should. However, we also found out that many of the tripwire schematics out there lacked one thing – usability.

First, they lacked practicality – after the laser is tripped, it doesn’t stay tripped. It’s only tripped when you have someone or something blocking the laser. That means that you can quickly “trip” the wire for 1/2 of a second and it’ll beep. Then the beeping will stop. That’s not how alarms in the real world work..

Second, enclosures. Many of the enclosures for laser tripwires out there weren’t robust or easy enough to install by beginners. They required drilling, sticking, cutting plastic, etc. And worst of all, they weren’t small or compact enough.

We sought to solve the first problem by first designing a laser tripwire that can rely on the Arduino you’ve built in Month 6 to solve that problem. Using Arduino logic and code, you can make the laser stay tripped with a few lines of code — then adding a momentary switch to reset it.

The second problem was solved with a custom cut 5x5cm PCB that will fit inside of the Altoids Tin. This solved the enclosure problem because it’s compact, and you can easily stick the tin on walls or where ever.. in our pictures, you can see we used Gorilla Pods with the iPhone attachment to mount the tins – they fit perfectly!

Laser Tripwire Schematics

These are the schematics for the Laser Tripwire. Remember, if there is a discrepancy between the the video, schematics, and the written instructions, this is the order you should reconcile it in:

Schematic > Written > Pictures > Video

This means that the schematic trumps everything! When in doubt.. check the schematics.

Laser Tripwire (Beginner without Arduino)

This is the tripwire schematics without Arduino – it’s designed to work without an Arduino (for those who haven’t built one from Month 6 or down own one). The only downside of this schematic is that the laser will only be tripped when there’s something is blocking it — and it won’t stay tripped. This means that a quick walk over the laser will make it go off for a brief second, only to go silent later..

If you are a beginner, build this.

Beginner schematics for the LASER TRIP WIRE does not include the 5V buzzer – which is something we have to fix. If you look at the pictures, you’ll know where to put it – between the collector of the second NPN transistor and VCC (see pictures). We’ll get this schematic fixed soon! :)

The way the pinouts on the schematics are NOT in the same order as the pinouts of an actual 555 Timer. The pin numbers of the 555 timers on the schematics are out of order so the connections are easier to understand. The actual pinouts of the 555 timer can be found below:


schematics - beginner without arduino

Laser Tripwire (Beginner with Arduino)

This beginner will allow you to power your laser tripwire with Arduino logic. While this is simple, instructions are not written for it in the Beginner section.. because it’s something we don’t expect the beginner to attempt. See the Guru section for instructions!

If you are a beginner wanting to advance into Arduino code, build this.

schematics - beginner with arduino

Laser Tripwire (Hobbyist and Guru)

These schematics are a combination of the hobbyist and guru kits for the laser tripwire. The main difference is that the hobbyist version does not include the auto-power-switching circuit (the leftmost diagram on the first page of the schematics – with the 2 diodes and the resettable fuse).

If you are a bit more advanced, build the hobbyist version, and link it up with an Arduino.

If you are feeling adventurous, go for the Guru. An extra challenge is to make everything fit inside of the tin, including the auto-power-switching circuit and an Arduino.

Guru kits also come with red, green, and yellow LEDs that will allow for the “arming and disarming” features.
schematics - hobbyist and guru

Beginner Laser Tripwire

[image here]

Red Laser, 5mW, 5V
AA Battery Holder (3pcs)
Mirror – 1″x1″
Rocker Switch

5cm x 5cm PCB
9V Battery Snap
5V Buzzer
Mini Switch
Momentary Switch

Trimpot Variable Resistor – 10K
1x Resistor – 10K
2x Resistor – 3.3K
2x Resistor – 1K
2x 2N2222 Transistor – NPN
S9102 Transistor – PNP

4x Nylon Spacers
4x Hex Nuts
4x Machine Screws

Hobbyist Laser Tripwire

[image here]

Red Laser, 5mW, 5V
AA Battery Holder (3pcs)
4x Mirror – 1″x1″
Rocker Switch

5cm x 5cm PCB
9V Battery Snap
5V Buzzer
Mini Switch
Momentary Switch

2x 8-Pin IC Socket
2x LM555N Timer
Trimpot Variable Resistor – 100K
Trimpot Variable Resistor – 47K
Trimpot Variable Resistor – 10K
Resistor – 100K
3x Resistor – 10K
2x Resistor – 3.3K
2x Resistor – 1K

Capacitor – 47uF
2x Capacitor – 0.1uF
Capacitor – 10uF

Speaker Jack – Female
2N2222 Transistor – NPN
S9102 Transistor – PNP
1N4148 Diode

4x Nylon Spacers
4x Hex Nuts
4x Machine Screws
External Power
Barrel Jack Adapter – Female

Guru Laser Tripwire

Everything in the Hobbyist Kit plus:
– 30V 0.5A Resettable Fuse
– 2x 1N5817 Schottky Diode
– Barrel Jack Adapter – Female
– 2x 5V 1A Power Adapter
– Extra Tin

Beginner Laser Tripwire

The beginner laser trip wire is a simple buzzer circuit with a photoresistor.

Remember that in this version, the laser tripwire will NOT stay tripped once you’ve tripped it. If you would like it to stay tripped, look at the schematics for the Beginner Tripwire with Arduino, and build accordingly.

Step 1: 2N2222 NPN Transistors

Place the transistors.
Transistor #1: P04, N04, L04
Transistor #2: H04, F04, D04

Transistor #1’s Emitter go to GND.
Transistor #2’s Collector go to GND.


Step 2: 3.3k Resistor

3.3k Resistor: L4, L8

One end goes to VCC.
The other end goes to Collector of NPN Transistor #1.


Step 3: 10K Ohm Trimpot Resistor

10K Ohm Resistor – The Wiper (middle leg): N7
10K Ohm Resistor – The Other Two Legs: O05, M05

The Wiper connects to the Base of NPN Transistor #1.
The Left Leg of the Trimpot Resistor goes to GND.


Step 4: 5V Buzzer

5V Buzzer: E7 (Positive Leg), H7 (Negative Leg)

5V Buzzer (Positive Leg) connects to VCC.
5V Buzzer (Negative Leg) connects to Collector of NPN Transistor #2.


Step 5: Connect Transistors

Collector of NPN Transistor #1 connects to Base (middle pin) of NPN Transistor #2.

*NOTE: Because the board here is FLIPPED over, Transistor #1 is on the RIGHT, and Transistor #2 is on the LEFT.


Step 6: The Switch & Power

The Switch: O16, N16, M16

Connect one of the left legs of the Switch to VCC.
Connect the middle leg of the Switch to POWER 5V+.
Connect GND POWER to GND.


Step 7: Photoresistor

For this, we chose to not mount the photoresistor directly on the board because it needs to stick out of the tin. Thus, we used two wires to make it flexible – and so that you can move the board in-and-out of the tin.
Photoresistor: N8, M15

One end of the photoresistor goes to VCC.
The other end connects with the Base of Transistor #1 and the Wiper of the 10K Trimpot Resistor (both of these should already be connected to each other.


Step 8: Tin Holes

Mark the four corners of the PCB onto the tin with a Sharpie or a marker. Use a small screwdriver or drill to cut circular holes the size of the pan-head screws. It’s always better to cut smaller than bigger!


Do another hole on the shorter side of the tin for the photoresistor.


Step 9: Mount the Photoresistor

Use hot glue to mount the photoresistor. We used electrical tape for the legs of the photoresistor to prevent it from touching the tin or each other. Optional, but recommended!


Step 10: Mount Everything Else

Here you can see the PCB mounted to the tin with the nylon spacers and the hex nuts. You might have a hard time trying to get the nylon spacers into place.. if that happens, just use a bit of glue to temporarily mount the nylon spacers onto the PCB before setting them in the tin holes.

This is what it should look like from the bottom of the tin, with the hex nuts in place.

Wow! A complete assembly!

Step 11: Take Apart Laser Pointer

Grab small pliers or something similar and slowly turn the silver part of the laser pointer until it comes off.


When it comes apart, you should see these parts. You can throw away the rest or save them for future DIY projects. We’ll only be using the laser pointer assembly.

De-solder the LED from the laser pointer assembly (you can also save that for a future DIY project!).


Step 12: Cut More Tins

*NOTE: Beginner and Hobbyist Kits do not come with an extra tin. You can find another enclosure to house the laser pointer, or grab an extra tin inside of the Kipkay Kits store.


Step 13: Solder Wires to the Laser Module

Solder positive and negative wires to the laser module like so.

Also add the rocker switch so that you can turn it on and off easily from the outside.


Hobbyist Laser Tripwire

The hobbyist laser trip wire is designed to be plugged into your speakers to really amp out the sound of the alarm when somebody trips the wire. It also comes with 555 Timers and Trimpot Resistors that allow you to adjust the frequency and sound of the alarm!

There are three trimpot (adjustable) resistors on the board. Two control the frequency and tone of the alarm – you can play around with it to adjust the sound to what you want. The 3rd one controls the resistance on the photoresistors – this is so that you can control the resistance at which the wire trips, depending on the lighting conditions of your own room!

Step 1: 8-Pin IC Sockets & Power Rails

555 Timer #1: L10, M10, N10, O10 // L07, M07, N07, O07
555 Timer #2: E07, F07, G07, H07 // E07, F07, G07, H07

Set up the top (VCC) and bottom (GND) power rails (optional, but recommended). You can use copper wire, or strip a piece of wire. You can also use a paper clip or any other metallic piece of wire that has good conductive properties.

Pin 1 of 555 Timer #1 goes to GND.
Pin 1 of 555 Timer #2 goes to GND.


Step 2: 10uF Capacitor and 0.1uF Capacitor

10uF Capacitor: N6 (positive), N5 (negative)
0.1uF Capacitor: G6, G5 (polarity doesn’t matter)

10uF Capacitor (positive) goes to Pin 2 of 555 Timer #1.
10uF Capacitor (negative) goes to GND.

0.1uF Capacitor goes to Pin 2 of 555 Timer #2.
0.1uF Capacitor (the other end) goes to GND.

Connect Pins 2 and 6 of 555 Timer #1.
Connect Pins 2 and 6 of 555 Timer #2.


Step 3: 10K Resistor & 47uF Capacitor

10K Resistor: J06, M06
47uF Capacitor: F06 (positive), F05 (negative)

One end of the 10K Resistor connects to Pin 3 of 555 Timer #1.
The other end of the 10K Resistor to Pin 5 of 555 Timer #2.

47uF Capacitor (positive) goes to Pin 3 of the 555 Timer #2.
47uF Capacitor (negative) is the Audio+ so we will leave it unsoldered for now.


Step 4: The Other 0.1uF Capacitor

0.1uF Capacitor: K08, K07

One end of the 0.1uF Capacitor goes to Pin 5 of 555 Timer #1.
The other end of the 0.1uF Capacitor goes to GND.


Step 5: Diode, 100K Trimpot Resistor & 100K Resistor

1N4148 Diode: P12 (unbanded, anode+, M12 (banded, cathode-)
100K Trimpot Resistor: N11 (Wiper) // M13, O13(Two legs)
100K Resistor: N16, N13

Right leg of the 100K Trimpot Resistor goes to Pin 6 of 555 Timer #1.
Wiper leg of the 100K Trimpot Resistor goes to Pin 7 of 555 Timer #1.

One leg of the 100K Resistor goes to the Wiper Leg of the 100K Trimpot Resistor.
The other leg of the 100K Resistor goes to VCC.

Anode (unbanded) leg of the 1N4148 Diode goes to where the Wiper leg of 100K Trimpot and 100K Resistor are connected..
Cathode (banded) leg of the 1N4148 Diode goes to where Pin 6 of 555 Timer #1 and 100K Trimpot Resistor are connected.

*NOTE: There is a small error in the photos, where the right leg of the 100K Trimpot Resistor is NOT soldered to the 1N4148 Diode+Pin 6 of 555 Timer #1. It should be soldered, and it will be fixed at the end of the instructions.


Step 6: 50K Trimpot Resistor & 10K Resistor

*NOTE: Schematics says 47K but the materials in the kit is 50K. Either one should work.
50K Trimpot Resistor: G11 (Wiper) // F13, H13 (Two legs)
10K Resistor: G16, G13

Right leg of the 50K Trimpot Resistor goes to Pin 6 of 555 Timer #2.
Wiper leg of the 50K Trimpot Resistor goes to Pin 7 of 555 Timer #2.

One leg of the 10K Resistor goes to the Wiper Leg of the 50K Trimpot Resistor.
The other leg of the 10K Resistor goes to VCC.


Step 7: Power for the 555 Timers

Pin 8 of 555 Timer #1 goes to VCC.
Pin 8 of 555 Timer #2 goes to VCC.


Step 8: 2N2222 Transistor & 3.3K Ohm Resistor

2N2222 Transistor: I05, J05, K05
3.3K Ohm Resistor: I09, I06

One end of the 3.3K Resistor goes to Collector pin of the 2N2222 Transistor.
The other end of the 3.3K Resistor goes to VCC.

The Emitter pin of the 2N2222 Transistor goes to GND.


Step 9: 10K Trimpot Resistor

10K Trimpot Resistor: J03 (Wiper) // I01, K01 (Other legs)

The Wiper leg of the 10K Trimpot Resistor goes to the Base of the 2N2222 Transistor (middle leg).
The Left leg of the 10K Trimpot Resistor goes to GND.


Step 10: Connecting the Units

Pin 4 of 555 Timer #2 is connected to Pin 4 of 555 Timer #1
Pin 4 of 555 Timer #1 is connected to where the Collector of the 2N2222 Transistor and 3.3K Resistor are connected.

Step 10.1: Correction for Step 5

As mentioned above in Step 5, the right leg of the 100K Trimpot Resistor is NOT soldered to the 1N4148 Diode+Pin 6 of 555 Timer #1, when it SHOULD be. This is the correction (as shown in the picture). It you have already corrected for this, ignore this step.

Step 12: Switch & Power

Switch: C14, C15, C16

One of the outside legs of the switch goes to VCC.
The middle leg of the switch goes to 5V+ POWER.

Connect GND POWER to the GND rail.


Step 13: Enclosure & Mounting

See the end of beginner instructions for mounting the laser tripwire. It will be a challenge to make them all fit together like Tetris, so use your best judgment. Here, we chose to mount the laser tripwire PCB on the lid of the Altoids Tin.

The rest of the parts – power, photoresistor, and the audio jack are mounted on the base of the Altoids Tin. The picture here is designed for a barrel jack adapter (5V 1A) which comes with the GURU KIT. The Guru Kit also comes with a fuse and a pair of diodes to make auto-power-switching possible so that you can power the tripwire using either batteries or an AC adapter.


Guru Laser Tripwire

Not only does the Guru Kit come with components that allow for auto-power-switching (fuse and diodes), it also comes with LEDs and an extra tin to make the project whole.

Here, we will walk through how to add 3 LEDs and a momentary switch that will help you “arm” and “disarm” the laser tripwire.

We suggest you breadboard this first before attempting to solder all of it together in 1 shot.

What you need: Arduino, Laser unit, Receiver unit
The code for Arduino can be found in the Resources section.

Connect Arduino to Receiver unit and LEDs:
– Pin 5 to Red LED+, the other leg goes to ground
– Pin 6 to Yellow LED+, the other leg goes to ground
– Pin 7 to Green LED+, the other leg goes to ground
– Pin 8 to base of transistor #2 (the transistor that’s connected to the buzzer)
– Pin 9 to collector of transistor #1 (the transistor that’s connected to photoresistor)
– Pin 10 connected to momentary switch, the other leg of momentary switch goes to ground

1) Power on Arduino. Green, yellow, and red LEDs turn on. This means the Receiver unit is deactivated.
2) Press momentary switch once. Only green LED turns on. This means the Receiver unit is ready to detect laser.
3) Power on Laser unit and aim laser to hit photoresistor of Receiver unit. If the laser is steady on the target, the yellow LED will stay on. This means the alarm is ready to arm.
4) While the yellow LED is on, press the momentary switch once. The red LED turns on. This means the Receiver unit is armed.
5) Once the laser beam is broken, the alarm is triggered and the red LED will blink.
6) To deactivate the alarm, hold down the momentary switch. Release the momentary switch when the alarm stops and the red LED turns off.
7) After several seconds, the Receiver unit is fully deactivated.

Arduino Code for the “Arm / Disarm” Feature

  • Milan

    I got my kit today and I’ll try to follow the pictures

  • Lavoz24

    I received mine today!!! This is going to be awesome!

  • Edward Winters

    When is the Q&A video for Arduino being posted? The schematic is not consistent with the video.

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Hey Edward, this is not the place to post this. Also please tell us (in the Arduino section) which sections are different.

  • joakim


  • Kevin

    Just finished the trip wire, fairly simple build, just need somewhere to set it up. Maybe down the road I may make another one and use the arduino if I am unable to figure out the binary clock

  • aiden

    i got my kit today,and thanks for personaly contacting me,keep up the good work-vids and kits ,aiden

  • Kurschun Finch

    When is the next live hangout?

  • joseph scalisi

    Finally, something to keep my brother out of my stuff

  • joseph scalisi

    and done, easiest kit yet, it annoyed the piss outta my brother when I was testing it

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Hook it up to the Arduino! πŸ™‚

      • joseph scalisi

        i have yet to finish that XD

  • Mitch

    Mines in transit. Very happy with the time it took, quiker than last time. Its already in transit last time it was only just sorting. Thanks kip and his team, u guys are awesome!

    • James

      How do you track?

      • Mitch

        Go onto you account page. Click on the order. There should be a tracking code there. Go on USPS enter it and find out where it is.

  • Edward Winters

    Hey joe my buzzer won’t turn on when I hit the power switch,am I missing something? Do you have a personal schematic? Once I grounded it to go off, the photoresistor will not react with the laser, I need serious help, I rechecked my connections.

  • Edward Winters

    Ah, the beginner’s schematic does not have the buzzer hooked up to it,and I thought this video was to be posted May 22,kip Team, you guys are a trip.

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Memorial day is a trip πŸ™ Yes we’re getting that fixed soon!)

  • connor orille

    This is the easiest kit I’ve done out of the last 2 kits but I lost my laser so I got to find it

    • connor orille

      If I can’t find my laser what do I do. Do I just by a new one from you kipkay

      • bigred200

        they sell this same laser at the dollar store

        • connor orille

          Ok thank you I will make sure I look for it

          • connor orille

            The laser isn’t at the dollar store

  • Ksoder

    I Want another kit, and a smoke mech. Did someone say spy movie? πŸ˜‰ kipkay, I hope you keep up what you do best… DIY videos

  • bigred200

    i have the hobbyist kit and on the schematic it shows arduino stuff do i have to have an arduino to use this? and the numbers above the pin outs on the schematic what are those because they don’t look like they tell you what pin is what

  • lahren1

    My laser pointer doesn’t shoot a laser. Is that supposed to happen?

    • connor orille

      No look at your circuitry mabe you made a bridge or you made wrong connections or your laser is broken

      • lahren1

        It never shot a laser. I havn’t completed the kit yet.

        • connor orille

          Did the laser even work when you got the kit

          • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

            Connor we already sent you another one yesterday – it’s coming to you.!

          • connor orille

            Ok ty

  • George Major

    This one didn’t go so well for me. I tried to build the beginner with Arduino and got it done based on the schematic. The alarm portion works correctly but switch portion only feeds power into the Arduino and sets off the alarm. Sensor portion trimpot top broke in testing and it occillates in a strange and controlled manner from the analog readings the Arduino gets.

    I’m not sure what I want to do with it yet. I might scrap the switch and do the light sensor design a little differently.

    • Bryan

      The oscillation is strange. It sounds like there may be noise in the power-source for the arduino, is it connected via USB to your computer? If so, try a battery and see if that reduces the oscillation. The other thing is that you need to tie all of the grounds together. If the ground from the photo receiver circuit is not tied to the arduino the pins will float.

      • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

        You guys are pretty intense. I understood half of what’s said here. Care to explain more so other subscribers will know?!

        • Bryan

          I am not an electrical engineer or anything so the info below could be incorrect; it’s just the way I understand things to be.

          Oscillation is a repeating fluctuation in voltage over time. In this case, the voltage fluctuation is being detected by the Arduino’s ADC (Analog to Digital Convertor). If you hooked up what is labeled β€œARDUINO_I/O_PIN9” in the schematic to an analog pin you would likely read oscillations possibly because of two things, either there is a noisy power source (bits of AC in the DC supply) or the phototransistor is picking up the 50-60hz signal from the lights on the house AC line. AC is an oscillating sine waveform. This effect would be further exaggerated if LED house lights were in use because of the quick on off time they exhibit. Batteries are good to use when line noise is suspect because they provide clean power with no noise and a predictable voltage tapper as the energy in the battery is exhausted. USB and Transformer power supplies can introduce AC noise into a power supply if it is not designed correctly (rectification and filters). Often times the 5V supply from a USB port contains switching noise from the computer in operation.

          The ground on the Arduino is a floating ground (unless it is connected to a computer or a non-isolated transformer then it is earth ground). Therefore, the voltage potential between the tripwire voltage and the Arduino ground is unknown. So, if the ground between the lasers trip wire and the Arduino is not common the digital and analog pins can β€œfloat” as well. Meaning they can read a high or low unpredictably because the reference to ground between the two circuits is different. To reliably read the digital signal voltages all of the circuits need to share a common ground reference.

          I can’t wait to give this kit a try! Only a few more days until my subscription comes due.

  • Simon Anderson

    Thank you Kip n team, awesome kit. The cats and kids are on the prowl, beep beep beep. haven’t seen the cats or the kids lol

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team


  • Nathan

    I finished but whenever I turn on the photoresistor part it just buzzes whether the laser is hitting it or not. Any ideas? I already checked for bridges and don’t see any.

    • The Doctor

      Have you adjusted your potentiometer?

      • Nathan

        I have the hobbyist so which of the 3 do I adjust?

        • Kevin

          I am having the same problem. i adjusted all POT’s and nothing stops when the laser hits it, it just changes the tone of the buzzer

          • Nathan

            That’s what mine was doing…then one of the Coca-Cola cans I had in my collection decided to spray soda everywhere in my room, including on my PCB board with all my components soldered on it…now nothing works (and it is all sticky). I have to email them and see if they can send me new parts…

          • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

            If the pot dont stop, email support HAHA. But try turning it all the way left and right first ;P

        • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

          You adjust the one connected to the photoresistor. If the pot doesn’t work, just email us we’ll send you new resistors / pots.

  • Mitch

    Kit here! Building it soon

  • Shawn Donovan

    I have the hobbyist kit. I built the circuit board based on the instructions but I have no idea what to do because the instructions don’t say and there isn’t a video so I don’t understand what to do. This is very frustrating to me… Please help!!!

    • Nathan

      Same boat here

      • Shawn Donovan

        It’s like they didn’t even finish the instructions!

        • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

          Working on it!

          • Shawn Donovan

            Thank you Jimmy!!!

          • Avery Brune

            Jimmy do you got like a estimate of how long it will take?

    • Simon Anderson

      bounce around the beginner and hobby parts, shows all you need. just remember, before putting pc in tin, insulate the bottom of pc or the tin so no shorts with the tin. only saying if a soldered part taller than spacer.

      • sparkymccloud

        I’m with Shawn on this. I finished the main board but don’t know what to do next. I have the components for the Hobbyist kit, and what are the mirrors for? I imagine its to bounce the laser around and back to the photoreceptor. I need help finishing it up. Do I need another PCB board to put in the other tin? Do I put the left over components on the main board? HELP!

  • connor orille

    Kip can you send me another laser cuz I can’t find the laser I got

  • zak robbins

    when will you finally get a video out on this?

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Sometime this week

  • Justin

    Great Kit!

  • Lavoz24

    It would’ve been really cool if we were to have those leg adapter holders included with our kits.
    Where can I find those?

    • zak robbins

      you can easily find them online for hardly anything, just search gorilla tripod. or you can probably find them in a local camera/electrical store for around 20 dollars

      • Lavoz24

        Thanks! I’ll look to see what I find.

  • frank

    i don’t even have instructions at all i need help

  • Sondertruck83

    Hi KipKay Team, I dont know why, but you have send to me a Hobbyist kit, while my subscription is a beginner kit. So you have send to me a highter version of my normal kit, I’m not complaining at all but I just wanted to report it, in case of someone have receive a Beginner kit instead of his Hobbyist kit.

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      If you need a beginner, just email. Otherwise, keep the kit and enjoy the free upgradee! πŸ™‚

      • Sondertruck83

        For the moment, the Hobbyist kit is good for me πŸ™‚ Still Thank you πŸ™‚

        • Lavoz24

          I am happy to see so many honest people! Since I’ve been a member I’ve read many posts about people getting extra parts or receiving extra kits or other stuff and it brings me lots of joy to know there are still honest people in this world.
          I don’t know if it’s me but I’ve noticed the majority of the people who are honest are the DIYers,hackers,builders,etc. whom are all out to share their stuff with the rest of the world and it makes me so happy to know their are people who are not only willing to share their knowledge but are also honest about stuff regardless of how minute one person might think it could be.
          Thanks to all!

  • Steven Franco

    I just got my laser kit today, and it happens to be my first kit as a subscriber. Can’t wait for the videos to come out.

  • Kevin

    I am so close to having this laser trip wire complete. i have the hobbyist kit hooked up to my arduino and all the steps are working with the activation with the led’s but the siren is going off when it shouldn’t and the siren stops when it should be going off. i can’t see what i have hooked up backwards, anyone have any ideas? so close … please help.. ( i didn’t have a yellow LED so i used an orange one instead) video link below

    Jimmy, will the different POTs and resistors fix this?

    Thank you in advanced for any help someone can provide

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Tell us where you hooked up the LEDs / the tripwire to Arduino and I’ll forward to Michael (one of our engineers) to help you!

      • Kevin

        Thanks Jimmy

        Red led is connected to pin5
        Orange led is connected to pin 6 (i didn’t have a yellow led)
        Green led is connected to pin7
        Pin 8 is connected to the 1k resistor that is on the base of S9102
        Pin 9 is between the 3.3k resistor and the collector of the 2N2222
        Pin 10 is connected to the push button switch and the 3.3k resistor

        I appreciate any help you can offer

  • Steve Dallenbach

    Great kit!

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Thanks Steve! Pictures!

  • Rich64

    I remember the speaker kit came with schematic and written instructions. Why change to everything on the computer and unable to be copied and pasted. I do not have a computer near my work station, nor will I put one there. Not enough room. So won’t you let us download these?

    • Lavoz24

      If you have an IPad or iPhone you could take a picture of it or even use a tablet next to your workstation. If you don’t have a tablet and have the money to buy one you could get a cheaply android for around $50 or $60. That way you could use it to do your kipkay kits. Matter of fact, I’m certain you could probably find on used in good condition for even cheaper on eBay.
      All the best!

  • Rich64

    If you put out a kit, make sure the videos are out before mailing kit Makes things much easier for us..

  • sparkymccloud

    Combining two KipKay kits and loving it. Thanks Kip and his team.

  • ilikegoat

    So how do we see the difference between resistors?

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      View the Irresistible Guide to resistors video and/or use multimeter πŸ™‚

  • Shawn Donovan
  • ilikegoat

    Is my buzzer supposed to buzz when my photoresistor is connected? And how do I “trip” the buzzer with the lazer?

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      adjust the photo resistor’s trimpot resistor

  • Austin

    i get one day off a month, and i usually spend that day catching up on sleep and doing my kip kay kip. Im no expert on electronics, i’m trying to use these kits as a learning tool. the only reason i buy these kits is because they come with a video tutorial, and much to my dismay this month i find no video tutorial. i still love the product, but am very disappointed this month.

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      it’s up now.!

  • Michael LaFaso

    This is a rip off I paid my money but I never received my kit and he will not answer any emails sent through his feedback form I’ve emailed him three times with no response save your money cause you wont get anything for it except an ulcer from the frustration!

    • Joshua Post

      E-mail them at support

      kipkaykits dot com

      They have been very responsive to me.

      • Michael LaFaso

        I’ll give it a shot and see what happens Thanks

      • Michael LaFaso

        Well that didn’t work

        • Joshua Post

          It is the weekend. Give them 1 business day to reply. They also watch these boards regularly.

  • zak wallace

    Hai Kipkay Im 12 Years Old And Looove Your Vidios πŸ˜€ I Have Watched Every Single One!!! πŸ˜€

    • connor orille

      im 12 to

  • Bryan

    Just finished the receiver circuit. For the first time ever I received a faulty chip, took me a while to figure that one out. Luckily the 555 is so common and they kitted sockets (sockets are awesome). I had a replacement in my stock, popped it in and it works like a champ.

    Kipkay Kits Laser Tripwire:

  • CrazyRican93

    This is awesome!! THANK YOU KipKay AND KipKay TEAM!!!
    Now to do the Aduino kit and hook it up!!

  • Joshua Post

    Whew. The last few steps of the Hobbyist kit took me quite awhile, since the directions never talked about connecting the wires for the photosensor or audio jack, and didn’t cover the wiring for the audio jack. I had to wire it 3 times to get it right. Cutting the tins also took some time since all I had was a drill and trying to get the right size and shape.

    My 4 year old loves playing with her “Lazy Tripwire” and trying to jump over it.

  • Joshua Post

    Also, there is an error on Step 1 of the Hobbyist kit. it says the location of Timer #2 is
    555 Timer #2: E07, F07, G07, H07 // E07, F07, G07, H07
    and I think you meant
    555 Timer #2: E10, F10, G10, H10 // E07, F07, G07, H07

  • Dominick

    Kipkay you should do a solar upgrade on this kit.also this kit was amazing looking forward to the next kit

    • Lavoz24

      If you have the solar charger he did a few months backs you could add it to this kit OR just buy those cheap solar lights used for gardens and use the solar charger and battery from it and connect it to this kit using the schematics that are on the solar charger kit.

  • Joshua Post

    What type of wire do you recommend for these types of projects? I’ve been looking on Amazon for some to do my Arduino Guro 5×5 with and I’ve found some 22 gauge stranded wire in multiple colors:

    Is this good to use? Would a higher or lower gauge wire be better? Stranded vs solid?
    In a pinch I’ve been using some Cat 5e cable that I’ve separated out the pairs, but it is very small wire and stiff to bend, being solid.


    • Bryan

      On perfboards I like to use 30 awg wire wrap. The stuff with the kynar insulation strips easily and works well for soldering. It takes a lot less space on the PCB too so you can get more wire on the board without creating a messy tangle.

    • Lavoz24

      I guess it depends on what you feel comfortable with using. I like to use 20/22 awg solid wire but my associate likes to use stranded. She says it’s easier to bend,twist,etc. but I like solid because I don’t want to sit there and waste time twisted stranded wires together. Not only that but sometimes they get untwisted and it gets frustrating if they have solder on them to try and retwist so I have to cut new wire and the old one gets wasted.
      I know for some electrical equipment the gauge of the wire is important(speakers,information,etc.) but these projects are small so I don’t think the size matters. For a while I was using old telephone copper wire I found hanging off telephone poles around my area and they worked great.
      Best of luck Joshua!

  • Lavoz24

    Hey fellow SuperFans! If you have a twitter acct. please follow me @Lavoe24
    I think this would be a good way to help each other out in real time ( besides Skype of course). Thanks!

  • this was a lot of fun!

  • Ahmed Mustufa

    In the laser tripwire kit how do you de-solder the led from the laser pointer with a regular soldering iron?

    • Joshua Post

      Just put the iron tip where the solder holding the LED leads are at. Once it gets hot and melted, use some pliers to lift the lead away from the solder. Repeat for the other lead and you are all set.

  • aidan

    PUT UP THE RIGHT VIDEO YOU DUMBBATS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • aidan


  • aidan


    • zak robbins

      aidan email support at kipkay dot com

  • Ahmed Mustufa

    Hi everyone,
    Im almost done building the beginner laser tripwire kit and have ran into a couple problems/questions near the end. I accidentally made the wires too long and soldered them but i think that can be fixed if i just trim the wire? And would a drill be the best equipment to make holes in the tin? is there any other equipment anyone would suggest?(Saying as the screws are very small and I don’t want to mess up) I tested the circuit without connecting the photo resistor (Just the wires going to the 9V battery) The buzzer went off , is that supposed to happen if you haven’t connected the photoresistor yet?

    If you have any feedback or suggestion feel free to comment it below.


    • Joshua Post

      You should be able to cut the wires shorter and solder them back on without issue.

      I used a drill to make my holes and it worked fine. Just go with a smaller bit than you think you need. You can always drill it larger, but can’t drill it smaller.

      If you didn’t have the photo resistor connected, it should go off. When the resistor is in place, it will connect that circuit when there is enough light going to it, which makes it silent. When the light goes out, then that circuit is broken which sets off the alarm. If you don’t have it installed at all, then it would be a broken circuit and should go off.

  • Ed

    I noticed in the video that you placed the 8-pin IC socket facing the number 8 facing to the right and on the intructions it is facing left. I used the intructions method to put together my kit and it isnt working, im wondering if its because i have it facing the wrong way, a responce is very appreciated. -Ed-

    • Joshua Post

      I don’t think the direction of the socket will matter a lot in the end, but the placement of the chip itself does. Notice which corner has the dot on the top and make sure it is oriented correctly.

  • pageturner1988

    Finally finished my first kit here and got it as clean looking as I’d like. The end was a toughie with the audio jack; I had to use the multimeter and an audio extension cable to test which leads to connect to. Definitely a fun one to figure out and put together.

  • Lavoz24

    Received my kit…..can’t wait to get the instructions so I could build this bad boy.

  • Elijah Wilson

    I have got through installing the photo-resistor. I am currently stuck on how to connect the audio jack. I noticed that the steps count from 10.1 to 12. Was step 11 left out on accident? I think that I have a grasp on everything else thanks to all the resources provided by Kipkay. I am in need of assistance on installing the audio jack though. Thanks in advance for any help. Been a fun build thus far.

    • Joshua Post

      I had a hard time with this one as well. If you put the part you plug in the headphones at completely away from you, the outside pins on each side should have the positive connections. I put one wire from the board to the left-most pin and then a jumper from the left-most to the right-most pin so it was dual mono (not really stereo since they are both the same)
      The ground wire goes to the single pin just above the jack itself, separated from all other pins.

      Hope that helps.

  • Stephen

    I did the beginner with arduino according to the schematics, and for the longest time I thought I had built it wrong, but after looking through the code, I think the problem was in there.

    You had pin 8 feeding power into the base of the transistor that controls the buzzer, but only when the alarm was tripped (the “setAlarm” function which controls pin 8 was set HIGH if on or true and in the case “statusTripped” “setAlarm” was set to true otherwise it was false) but that transistor being a pnp sends power to the buzzer unless the base is powered. So it was backwards and turning the buzzer on and off at the wrong times.

    Does that make sense? Also please correct me if I’m wrong. I modified the code so that pin 8 was on until the alarm was tripped and then turned off, and that seemed to work for me.

    • Isaac

      So what exactly did you change?

      • Stephen

        Wow it has been so long since I messed with this but I think I remember what I did.

        The very last function where it says:

        void setAlarm(boolean on) {
        if (on) {
        } else {

        I switched the High and Low inputs so that it looked like this:

        void setAlarm(boolean on) {
        if (on) {
        } else {

  • Edgar

    I did the beginner kit I am pretty sure i did everything right step by step but the buzzer goes off when the laser hits the photo-resistor how can I fix this?

  • Edward Winters

    I never received this month’s kit, and you are taking another payment from me tomorrow, I sent two prior messages but kipkay or his team have not responded. I have spoke to an attirn

  • Matt

    I finished my beginner kit and hen i power it on it get a constant “soft” ring and the laser, when tripped, does nothing! So I tap it on the table and i hear a “loud” ring then cant figure out whats wrong. I double checked the connections and they were fine an help?

  • Henrik Hemnes

    I have finished my Laser Tripwire, but I have a problem. When I turn it on, the 555 Timer #1 gets hot, and there is no beeping. I don’t see what the problem is. Can someone help me?

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      That’s not regular – I would check the pinouts – it might be a short.

  • Michelle Backes

    Want if I don’t have a speaker for the tripwire? Does it work without?

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Yes try a buzzer

  • Griffin

    Hi, I just finished the beginner kit and I ran into a problem. My buzzer does not shut off even when the laser is on the photoresistor. What is wrong and how can I fix it?

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      It might be a potentiometer problem. Try different lighting conditions.

    • Isaac

      I have the same problem

  • Grant

    My kit wont work! I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DOOO! Someone help! Do I have to use the arduino for the beginner kit? If so, didn’t get that kit. Please help!

    • Jimmy from Kipkay’s Team

      Can you tell us what you did and/or upload pictures. You don’t have to use any Arduinos because the tripwire doesn’t need any.

      • Grant

        This a good enough picture?

        • Stephanie Ann Rosales

          Hey Grant were you still not able to get it to work? Most often times a circuit won’t work from the simplest mistake like if a wire isn’t grounded where it should be and you think it’s soldered but it’s actually a cold joint xD. The other thing may be the power switch

  • Grant

    oops. Sorry for the selfie. :p

  • austin schlegel

    i need some help with the photo cell and the audio jack

    • Joshua Post

      Do you still need help?

  • austin schlegel

    well i just fried my kit yay stuped sub standered tools

    • Joshua Post

      How did that happen? I built the entire Arduino kit with the kipkay soldering iron

  • aymeric

    Where can i buy the wire to use in the project. i have look online but i do not know what type of wire to buy. thanks

  • Daniu00ebl Abrahams

    is there a way to get just the tin case because i only got one?

    • Joshua Post

      You can use any box, maybe a smalll cardboard one.

  • aymeric

    when i shine the laser unto the sensor the noise starts and when i take it off it stops. please help. did i swap a component round

    • aymeric

      Can SOmeone answer please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

      • Andrew Kaufman

        This is a guess, but I think Joshua was right. Something is backwards, and it may be as simple as your buzzer. Try switching the wires around on your buzzer. You may notice that one leg is a little longer than the other. Usually, with electronics, that means that that is the positive lead. With regular speakers, you sometimes have to be annoyingly anal about making sure that the positive is connected to red, and the ground to black. Give the buzzer a look see, and check your connections for that. Or just try swapping the connections around. If that fails, go back over the directions a few times, paying very close attention to the wiring and which pin gets which wire. You’d be surprised how much a tiny error can screw things up. I’ve made many an elementary error of much the same style as getting the polarity wrong.

    • Joshua Post

      Something is backwards as that is the opposite of what it sound.

  • Bshehayber

    What is vcc

  • Austin

    were does the ldr go and the sound out put were do they go

    • Joshua Post

      Are you talking about the audio jack connections? The positive goes furthest away from the plugin and ground closest to the jack. I’ll see if I can get a close up picture of mine in the next few days.

      • Austin

        i need that and the photo cell

        • Joshua Post

          Here is a closeup of mine. The white wire goes to the outside pin furthest from the jack and connect to the capacitor. The black wire goes from one outside pin to the other side so I get alarm in Stereo (dual mono actually). The green wire connects closest to the jack and goes to ground I believe. (Board is mounted to my tin so I can’t see under it)

          On the left is the photo resistor but I don’t believe there is a positive or negative side, just pick one.

          • Austin

            i need to know the wireing points on the chips and stuff

          • Joshua Post

            Here is a picture of my board. The white wire that goes to the two outside lead on the headphone jack connect to the capacitor coming from the second 555 chip. The green wire, which connects to the ground on the headphone jack connects to the ground rail of the board.

            The orange and white wire on the bottom goes to the photoresistor. In my picture the orange wire on the board is connected to 5V on the back, and goes to the one leg of the photo cell. The white wire goes to the middle top pin of the pot labeled 103 and to the other side of the photo cell.

            Does that help?

  • Brandon Fa

    I ordered the Begginer kit where are the schematics to connect it to an Arduino or Kipduino.

    • Joshua Post

      Check out the Guru tab to see where the legs of the LEDs would connect to the Arduino, plus wires to the transistor bases and a momentary switch.

  • Russell

    i hooked the 9volt battery pack that came in my kit to the main board and when i turned it on it started smoking. now whenever i turn it on the buzzer goes off even if the laser pointer is shining right on it… please help… i don’t know what to do

    • Joshua Post

      Try adjusting the pots by turning them different directions to adjust the sensitivity. One time my 9volt battery got really hot but didn’t again. I suspect a short.

  • CrazyRican93

    Did I wired something wrong or did I used the wrong resistors?? what did I do wrong?? It didnt do anything

    • Joshua Post

      Did you change the power switch to the other position?
      Try connecting a multimeter to the two wires going to the headphone jack. Maybe you have those backwards?
      Check to make sure power is going where it should.
      It also appears that your 555 chips are in backwards from the tutorial instructions, so unless you flipped that wiring, change those.

    • Joshua Post

      Were you able to get it going?

  • Isaac

    Im confused, can you or can you not use the beginner kit with an arduino, like the kipkay kits one?

    • Joshua Post

      I’m not entirely sure. Check the Guru tab for the instructions of where to connect things at, but you would need to provide other components such as 3 LEDs and a momentary switch. I haven’t built the beginner so I’m not sure how this would line up with the directions.

  • Isaac

    Step 6, how can you connect one pin to vcc and one to 5v, they are the same things…

    • Joshua Post

      One leg connects to the red wire you previously connected, and the other one goes to your battery pack.

  • Isaac

    The beginner arduino instructions make no sense…is there a switch and a momentary button? What is pin 10 connected to? Why doesnt it work?

  • david becker

    hey (:i just finished the laser beginner set (: very nice

    but now i have a question. I would like to connect the laser tripwire to my smart home (:

    for this i buy a fibaro universal binary sensor but i don’t know where to connect :/ with a switch the fibaro works :/ can u help me?

  • david becker

    Okay i got it (:
    Better than i thought (: now the sensor sends me two things: one if the laser tripe wire is power on ore off and the laser is lighting ore not (:

  • Robin

    I have the beginner kit and when i turn it on the busser is starting to pip like ####.
    I dont know why and i have checked it a hundred times.
    And when i turn the laser on it can’t be turned off.
    Can someone help me? THX

  • Mrb

    i am having difficulty hooking up the audio jack. I see I’m not the only one with this issue. Is there a photo someplace or directions?

    • David Fries

      There’s a schematic and for a picture the last hobbyist photo M07_62, 59/60, shows the stereo jack installed, it has the one black wire and two red wires leading to it.

      • Mrb

        Thanks. I took your advice and got the laser tripwire working. It’s pretty neat to see in action and the kids loved setting up mirrors to bounce the beam around the room back to the receiver.

    • Joshua Post

      I posted some pictures in some earlier comments with Austin of my project, but as David said, if you go to the Hobbyist directions, the very last picture shows it pretty well. The positive connections go to both of the outside pins (connect both to have stereo sound, or only one for mono), and then the center pin closest to the actual jack goes to ground.

  • Bad

    While inserting the completed board into the tin. It began to spark and smoke. Now, no matter how much I adjust the trimpot resistor, the sound continues regardless if there is light or not. Please help!

    • Joshua Post

      Did you take it back out of the tin to look under it? Maybe something shorter in the tin or was already shorted?

  • Alfirah

    Finished the hobbyist receiver circuit last night and I cant get any sound going. Checked all the circuit for shorts with my multimeter and found none. Power is going through the circuit, my speakers work fine. I took my photoresistor out and tested it with a simple breadboard circuit and its fine. I see that on the video, the 104 trimpot is the one connected with the base of the transistor, but the instructions tell us to put the 103 trimpot there. Which is right? According to schematics, it should be the 10k trimpot there and is what I did.
    Now I just tested the voltage across my photoresistor when its under a bright LED light or with my finger blocking light completely. Under LED shows 3.96V across and without light shows 4.00V. Seems to be quite a small difference…what does it tell me? Please help, I dont know what is wrong! Sorry I wasnt able to take better pictures…

    • David Fries

      This wasn’t one of the kits I built, so I’m just looking over the instructions. I watched the video and at 05:28 the 103 trimpot is the one on the bottom closer to the transistor, which looks to me to agree with the schematic. The problem is the transistor. The video shows the flat side pointing to ground. The direction pictures show the flat side pointing up to the power rail side. Can you verify that the transistor emitter is connected to ground, that the base is connected to the trimpot/photocell and the collector is connected to the 3.3 KOhm resistor?

      The voltage difference you are reading is very small. Does adjusting the trimpot make a difference? When you mentioned testing the photoresistor with a breadboard what was the circuit and what were you reading there?

      As far as taking pictures, get the camera as close as it can and
      still be in focus, and then crop it down would be my suggestion.

      From the overview, trust the schematics over the written instructions over the picture over the video. Ideally they would all be in agreement, but if there are problems found the schematic and written instructions are easier to update. Though in this case the yellow warnings might mean the written instructions trump.

      • Alfirah

        I appreciate your quick answer David. To test my photoresistor, I just powered my breadboard with 5v and used a 10k resistor in series with the photoresistor and read the voltage across it with light and with darkness, I found the voltage qoing from high to low in a much more dramatic manner than in my laser trip project.

        I just tested the voltage again across the photoresistor with my project circuit powered (with 3 AA batteries that are good, giving off about 4.6V), and if I adjust the 103 trimpot to the other end then I get a higher voltage but not more difference between light and darkness (4.66V and 4.64V).

        My transistor is in the right position, collector going to the 3.3k ohm resistor and emitter going to ground. Base going to wiper of 103 trimpot.

        So it looks like the photoresistor itself is fine but it does not change so much in resistance while in the circuit of my project.
        I could not take a better close up without losing focus, but if you really need a better picture to help me, I can work on it.
        I hope someone has a suggestion as to why the photoresistor behaves this way in my project.
        Thank you so much!!

        • David Fries

          What do you get if you measure at the transistor collector (connected to twh 3.3 kOhm resistor) relative to ground when it is light and dark?
          You can take some voltage measurements across the 3.3 kOhm resistor, and across the transistor in all three ways if you want. Both with it light and dark. If the resistance is changing across the resistor then the transistor is turning on and off at least some, which is pulling it down to ground or not.

          • Alfirah

            I was measuring 4.60V both with light or dark at the transistor collector relative to ground. I got discouraged a bit, not being able to find the problem. I guess I lack understanding of the circuit itself. So I decided to build the beginner circuit first and see if I could make that one work before building the hobbyist again.
            Well, there seems to be confusion between schematics and instructions way too often for a DIY beginner to sort out!

            First step, 2 transistors. Instructions say 2x 2n2222 transistors, which are NPN. Well the schematics symbols indicate 1 NPN transistor, and 1 PNP transistor. And they are both identified as T1. Since we did receive a PNP transistor in the kit, it makes it very confusing. Please clarify and make an effort to review the instructions you give out so that we don’t spend hours building a kit to find out we did it wrong because we followed wrong instructions.

            I keep seeing the transistor put in the hobbyist kit with the flat side facing the chips….which brings the emitter on the side of the 3.3kohm resistor, not the collector (on Joshua’s kit picture down below…). Its really hard to learn when we have to decipher errors from correct.
            I dont want to give up on my projects and love the kipkay kits concept!
            Thank you.

          • David Fries

            Unfortunately just one thing not being right can keep the entire kit from working properly and it can be difficult to track down. The moderators only have access to the discussions, we don’t have access to modify the instructions and yes like you found we have found errors in the instructions and at times the instructions have been corrected.
            The beginner build instructions do a better job of clarifying which transistor goes where and the orientation. You might also look up instructions for testing a transistor using the multimeter diode test.

          • Alfirah

            I am now building the beginner kit on a breadboard to figure it out before I start soldering again…
            I am using a 9 volts battery to power it. I will make my question more clear this time. Which are the 2 transistors we need to use? 2 x 2N2222 (both NPN), as in the instructions and the writing on the schematics? Or 1 NPN and 1 PNP as in the schematic symbols? Please also clarify which one is T1 and which one is T2.
            Thank you! I do feel the need to get this to work.

          • David Fries

            Putting it together on the breadboard is a good idea. The beginner schematics in the overview tab section is incomplete (the notes above say so), and wrong (you are correct the symbol is a NPN and PNP, while both list 2N2222). I didn’t build this kit, but I would direct you to the BEGINNER tab, which has some instructions and pictures. Those instructions only reference the 2N2222 transistor.

    • Joshua Post

      It’s been awhile since I built this one, but I did it according to the directions on the site, ignoring anything in the video and mine came out working correctly, so I would follow the directions, assuming they haven’t been changed to become incorrect.

      What happens if you use a wire to jumper across the photoresistor entirely, or break the connection by removing a wire? Just thinking to bypass the photo cell entirely to see what happens.

  • Aaron Alexander

    What if i switched the timer chips so that the “8” is on the left side?

    • David Fries

      You mean rotated 180 degrees? Best case no harm done, take it out, rotate it around and try again. Some chips if you turn it around like that have power and ground reversed and you are pretty much
      guaranteed to destroy them, these have power and ground at the same end, so I don’t know.

  • Aaron Alexander

    I want a refund for the laser tripwire hobbyist version because it is too hard and it is very flimsy

    • Joshua Post

      What specific part is too hard? Do you have the beginner or the hobbyist kit? I saw you were concerned about having the timer chip in backwards. Maybe a replacement part could be shipped out if you contact the support email address

      • Aaron Alexander

        I have the hobbyist kit version. The PCB is very flimsy and the the timer chips are not going in properly

        • Aaron Alexander

          Can you send me a new hobbyist kit?

  • moshe2003

    I am really a begginer so can you please make a step-by-step video for the begginer portable laser tripweire and “game boy”?

  • cpautler

    Might be out of my ability. OK, so I tried the hobbyist kit. Was not totally impressed with the directions as I had to frequently go back and forth between videos and pictures and the beginner directions along with having to figure out things like which resister is which and what the different legs of the trimpot resistor and the transistors.
    ANYWAY…I got to the point where I was ready to test the buzzer/sound. Due to the fact that I don’t have the wall power adapter, I used the 9Volt connector. Basically, I got nothing. I’m not great with a voltage tester but I would get the 9volts when testing the VCC and the ground. When I connect the VCC with the photo resistor I get a little less than 2 volts(not sure if this is right) I also don’t know how a photo resistor works and the voltage doesn’t change when I take it out of the light(does that mean it isn’t working?) Finally I get no power at all when testing the speaker jack. Any ideas?

    • David Fries

      Is the laser side working? A photo resistor works like a variable resistor only the resistance varies based on how much light it is receiving. Try taking your multimeter in voltage mode across the photo resistor (one tester on each side), with it dark and a bright light on it. Without th battery/power connected you can use the multimeter resistance setting and see if you get a different resistance with it light or dark. The problem with testing the resistance is, it is part of a circuit so the rest of the circuit might affect the behavior. Also compare each side of the photo resistor with ground. If you don’t see any difference then unsolder one side of the photo resistor and test with the resistance setting on your multimeter.

      Can you post a picture of what you built, front and back? There is a limit to how big of a picture you can post, so crop it and reduce the size if you need to. Your right, the instructions can always be better, there’s also different options for how to build it so not everyone will end up with the same device.

  • Samuel Martin

    Whenever I turn it on, there is no sound. When I unplugged the photo resistor, it started to beep. What should I do?

    • Joshua Post

      Did you try adjusting the trim pots? One of them controls the sensitivity to light. You want it to sound the alarm when the laser is not pointed at it, but stop when the laser hits it. Turn it left and right with a small screwdriver or maybe your finger.

      • Samuel Martin

        I adjusted the sensitivity, and it worked, but then it smoked for 5 seconds and wouldn’t do any thing at all.

  • Ian Machemer

    My hobbyist kit doesn’t seem to include a 100K resistor…

    • Ian Machemer

      Never mind, I can use a leftover resistor from the Solar Charger kit.