Minecraft Torch


The Minecraft torch is the perfect accessory to protect your home from spawning mobs or as a light source when treading your way to another dimension. For non-Minecraft enthusiasts it can be used to recreate the scene from Jurassic Park when Ian Malcom is distracting the 16-foot tall Tyrannosaurus Rex or as the iconic gates when two torches are placed outside your door. It is also ideal for those with achluophobia and is light to handle so you won’t get tired holding it! The kit has two different levels, and both can be assembled without soldering! Beginners receive the Level 1 kit and Hobbyists receive the Level 2 kit.

As you wait for the instructional video for Kip to upload this month, here is a temporary video with instructions. Thank you for your patience and understanding


The Minecraft torch kit level 1 works by using a CR2032 battery and a magnet to hold six LEDS in place which can be turned on/off with a rocker switch and is enclosed in pre-cut cardboard. The Minecraft torch kit level 2 has an ATtiny45 to create a flickering effect for the torch (“ooo, ahhhh”)!

The beginner kit is a fairly simple build. The specifications for the lamp LEDs are shown here:led specification


Minecraft_Torch_Beginner-page-001 (2)


Minecraft_Torch_Hobbyist-page-001 (1)

Beginner Parts:

  • 1x Printed Card Stock for Flames
  • 1x Printed Card Stock for Wood
  • 1x Foldable Cardboard
  • 1x Printed Template card
  • 2x Cr2032 Button-cell Batteries
  • 1x Magnet
  • 6x Lamp LEDS
  • 1x Push-pin
  • 12x Double-sided Tape Squares
  • 2x Red Wires
  • 1x Black Wire
  • 1x Rocker Switch


Hobbyist Parts:

Same as beginner except:

  • ATtiny45
  • 3x Red Wires
  • 2x Black Wires

hobbisy parts

You will need:

Wire cutters
Needle-nose pliers
Glue gun (optional)
Scotch tape

Step 1:
Unfold the cardboard so that the end with the tab sticking up is on the left side. Place the yellow card template on the tab and poke holes with the push-pin. Remove the template.
Step 2:
Using needle-nose pliers, bend the legs of all 6 legs as shown in the illustration below. It should look like all LEDs are walking up some invisible stairs.
Step 3:
Place the negative leg (most bent leg) in the center hole and positive legs in the outer holes. The center will become snug after a few legs are in there so you may need to poke more with the push pin.
Make sure all the negative legs are touching in the center. Solder may be added for extra security but is not necessary.

Step 4:
Using the black wire, wrap one of the ends around the negative legs of the LEDS and using needle-nose pliers, bend half the legs in opposite directions to hold in place.
It may be difficult to bend the LED legs and be careful not to rip the center hole. An alternative would be to solder the wire but is not necessary when legs are bent.

step 5:
Bend the positive legs inwards and wrap one end of the red wire around all pins. Also make sure that the negative wire/pins are not touching any of the positive wire/pins.
Also optional for soldering here.

Step 6:
Bend a few of the LED pins outwards so the wire stays in place, you should be able to give it a tug to make sure it won’t come off.

Level 1 Continued

This is the continuation for Level 1 beginner kit instructions. For Level 2 see other tab.

Step 7:
Flipping the cardboard over so the tab pointing up is now on the right side, wrap one end of the other red wire around the top tab that is part of a cross. (The square about this tab should be punched out).
The black wire coming from the negative legs of the LEDS should be brought down and placed in the center of the cross. (Hot glue may be useful here for the insulated part of the wire).


Step 8
Place the two Cr2032 batteries in series, with the positive terminal touching the negative terminal of one of the batteries. Then with the negative terminal facing down, place on top of the black wire, fold the tabs toward the battery to hold in place, and place the magnet on top to hold everything together. (Hot glue may be used for the edges of the tab.)

Do not solder the wires directly to the battery, doing so may cause an explosion!

Step 9:
Place the rocker switch in rectangular hole above the batters with the switch facing outward. Thread the two red wires into separate pins and wrap it around so they stay in place. (Solder may be used here)

Level 2 Continued

Step 7:
Grab the yellow template for the ATtiny Chip and poke holes with the push pin. Then make sure the chip is oriented with the circle in the top left corner and bend pins 4, 5, and 8 outward.

Continuation for hobbyist instructions.

Step 8:
Grab a black wire and wrap it around pin 4 of the ATtiny Chip. Then Grab two red wires and wrap those around pins 5 and 8. Make sure the wires are as close to the body of the chip as possible.
Step 9:
Bend pins 4, 5, 8 inward so the chip can be placed through the template where the holes were cut. Then once the chip is placed through the template, bend the legs inward to hold in place.
Step 10:
Place the black wire coming from the LEDS in the center of the cross, below where a rectangular hole should be punched out for the switch. Place the two Cr2032 button-cell batteries in series with the negative end over the black wire.
Place the rocker switch facing out through the rectangular cut-out and thread the red wire coming out of pin 8 of the ATtiny chip to one of the pins of the rocker switch. Attach the red wire coming from pin 5 of the ATtiny to the positive wire of the LED legs. Grab another red wire and thread one end to the other end of the rocker switch and the other end to the positive terminals of the batteries and fold the tabs toward the battery to hold in place (hot glue may be used for the edges of the battery). Place the magnet on top to hold in place.
Do not solder the wires directly to the battery, doing so may cause an explosion!


Final Step:
Once you have the LEDS lighting up, fold the cardboard so it forms a rectangular torch shape and tape the sides (or hot glue).
Then starting with the flame template, place double-sided tape as indicated in the illustration below and wrap around the LEDS.
Then add the template for the handle of the torch, making sure the rectangular cut-out is placed over the switch.
Optimal placement for double-sided tape!

template instructions

Check this!

Here is the code used for the ATtiny45, if you have an arduino you can reprogram the ATtiny45 to change the rate of the flicker or blink off and on if you really wanted to.

const int modeSteady = 0;
const int modeFlicker = 1;

int currentMode;
//int pinLED = 0;
//int pinModeSwitch = 1;
int pinLED = 0;
int pinModeSwitch = 4;
int modeChangeDelay = 750;

void setup() {


//currentMode = modeSteady;
currentMode = modeFlicker;

void loop() {

// if (detectModeSwitchPressed()) {
// analogWrite(pinLED,0);
// delay(modeChangeDelay);
// currentMode = getNewMode(currentMode);
// activateMode(currentMode);
// } else {
// }

boolean detectModeSwitchPressed() {
if (digitalRead(pinModeSwitch)==HIGH) {
return true;

} else {
return false;

int getNewMode(int currentMode) {

int newMode;
switch (currentMode) {
case modeSteady:
newMode = modeFlicker;
case modeFlicker:
newMode = modeSteady;
return newMode;

void activateMode(int mode) {
switch(mode) {
case modeSteady:
case modeFlicker:
int randomBrightness;
int randomFlickerDelay;

int brightnessMin = 5;
int brightnessMax = 10;
int brightnessMultiple = 25;

randomBrightness = random(brightnessMin,brightnessMax)*brightnessMultiple;


int delayMin = 1;
int delayMax = 10;
int delayMultiple = 50;

randomFlickerDelay = random(delayMin,delayMax)*delayMultiple;